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How to remove front suspension complete with torsion bars

mr-reno-139

AKA Paul Cunningham
Messages
2,247
Location
lancing west sussex england
20150429_160713.jpg 20150429_160713.jpg seeing as lots of people are stripping cars down 2 bare chassis thought this may be useful
Pictures for the tricky bits only as pretty sure anyone going this far can manage instructions

This can be done safely and reassembly instructions will follow as and when I get that far with my project
WARNING A TORSION BAR IS A LONG SPRING LOADED ITEM AND NOT FOLLOWING SEQUENCE COULD RESULT IN SUDDEN RELEASE OF LOWER ARM DOWNWARDS WITH ENOUGH FORCE TO CAUSE INJURY

first step support car securely on stands high enough to allow lower arm to swing right round to a vertical hanging position other wise you will not get clearance for removal forgot to measure exact height but you get the idea
You will definitely need use of a trolley jack for procedure
Remove the following
Crossmember tube between chassis leave nuts off
anti roll bar
front tie bar
Front hub brake assembly
drive shaft
The tin cover under floor at rear mounting of torsion bar
clean the end of torsion bar both where it fits lower arm ad at the rear to enable a clear white paint reference Mark to be made in case the splines are not actually rurusted solid
Front shocker must be left on til last to until you are ready to follow photos

position trolley jack under lower suspension arm at the extreme end jack car slightly until weight is supported undo the top shock absorber Nuts if necessary sitting on front cross member using your body weight if you have already removed the engine it should be possible to undo to the last thread with only minimal force with the trolley jack holding the tension
Remove nut carefully
it should then be possible to slide the lower mounting bolt from the shock absorber
Next remove the 2 13 mill bolts holding the suspension up right to the top of chassis leg
gap will appear as the suspension tries to release again make sure the jack is under the lower arm remove bolts and then lower jack completely
the whole suspension should now be only resting on the to lower bolts which originally held the cross member in place
remove bolts inside car on centre cross member just the three large ones and the whole suspension Will then drop out it should all remain complete with torsion bar
All done 20150429_160713.jpg20150429_161055.jpg20150429_161339.jpg20150429_161442.jpg20150429_161531.jpg20150429_161821.jpg20150429_161904.jpg
 
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You didn't mention how to take off the bar housing uner the seats...
And I would like to know how to put it on again after that in order to decide to act or not!
I am precisely at that point of the stripping...
 
The tin cover I forgot about as I had already removed them when I started cleaning rust off floor pan
I was originally going to leave front suspension on but decided I could get better acess for cleaning and painting
Sorry I didn't take pics when I removed rear suspension either as I took that out complete too with no problems
I will be reassembling shortly aprox 2 weeks as off on holiday Sunday for a week depending on internet acess I may be able to get on forum
Anyone wishing to contact me on facebook feel free to look me up and send me a message as I may not accept friend requests if I don't see a R4 on your profile pic ☺
 
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If you are going that far and you don't have the torsion bar tool, the best way to relieve tension from the bar would be to follow your steps without loosening the suspension upright bolts. Loosen the lower arm pin nut instead, so that it can pivot freely when you lower the jack. When the lower arm hangs free (=tension has been relieved from the torsion bar), you can undo the upright bolts and remove the assembly. It's easier and safer this way, I think.
 
If you are going that far and you don't have the torsion bar tool, the best way to relieve tension from the bar would be to follow your steps without loosening the suspension upright bolts. Loosen the lower arm pin nut instead, so that it can pivot freely when you lower the jack. When the lower arm hangs free (=tension has been relieved from the torsion bar), you can undo the upright bolts and remove the assembly. It's easier and safer this way, I think.
Angel, your tips are always useful and wellcome... can you explain showing some pics for us that are a bit more ignorant than the average mechanic?
 
My guide was based on my experience and in 40 years this is only the 2nd time for me to strip suspension this far
The first time was breaking the rodeo up 2 months ago
So any suggestions welcome I did think of slacken the nut on slotted thread but thought it might disturb bush centre point and there was very little tension left and as I undid the 13 mm top bolts it released gradually in a controlled manner
Of course reassembly may prove more difficult single handed
 
I've disassembled the front suspension on Marigold to adjust the ride height, but of course the engine and gearbox were still fitted to add weight, and the body. Not so sure it's so straightforward without this help
 
That's why I mentioned sitting on front cross member pretty sure if you weigh nearly 100 kg it will be fine
I was originally hoping to video it but couldn't get camera in right place without an assistant
 
Thank you Mr-reno-139 for this short manual...

I have striped suspensions all the way and now have trouble seeing in my mind step by step how to adjust ride height.

Now i know how to do it...it will be little bit more difficult as engine is in place but will manage somehow.
 
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