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Rust proofing products
- Thread starter Dyte
- Start date
reidalpine
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,658
BonSoir Dyte! First of all I'd stay Off any/all sprayable/paintable remedies containing zink.I've used most of these on various projects
and they ALL have dried and flaked off relatively fast! (It seems to me this kind of zink dries Too hard and doesn't do ANY good at all.
They salt the roads like they Own the saltmines of Sibiria over here in Norway,so our cars are exposed to the worst thinkable conditions!
What I have found the best-by far is to use Carosol/Dinitrol/Tectyl etc. Brand isn't important..What IS is to use ONLY the THIN-stuff meant
for INSIDE hollow structures. Channels/frames etc
I stay OFF the heavy/thick stuff these same sells you for undertray etc as the stuff is too heavy in itself so after a while it sags and
leaves "pockets" where air and humidity accelerates the forming of rust.It still Looks to be ok so you are lead to belive all is ok and fine
which it is Not! as rust eats away in-between the floor-pan and the thick stuff..
USE ONLY THE THIN STUFF!!.It comes in 400gr spray-cans or you can buy it in 1l.cans to connect to your compressor.
I steamwash all undertray,take of the wheels,put a shoppingbag over the hubs and afterwards i let it dry out at least 24hrs if warm out-
side.Then it's an easy task to spray a nice covering layer ,2 or 3 layers where you know the stuff will see more wear and tear(fx:inside
wheel-arches,front and rear wheel-arc lower corners)
-Another good tip is to place the spray-cans in 40-45C.warm water bath before you use them as this will give somewhat better pressure
but most important:the stuff will creep and cover better) Do NOT get tempted to heat the
spraycans in other way as they Can explode!
I use to take off the wheels twice a year (nice to get it all cleaned out under there,adjust the brakes,check the gaiters etc at same time)
I lift the car ane side at the time (Never trust just the jacks!) it's then easy to renew the thin stuff just in case some is now thinning out
and the new stuff keeps the old stuff nice and soft so it won't dry and crack up on you!
(I normally use 2 ordinary spray-cans for this,which leaves the underside nice and shiny and ready for yet another year
-Best testament to my approach is that since I started doing it this way (8yr's ago)Roffen the F4 hasn't developed ANY rust as far as i can see....
-Reid.
and they ALL have dried and flaked off relatively fast! (It seems to me this kind of zink dries Too hard and doesn't do ANY good at all.
They salt the roads like they Own the saltmines of Sibiria over here in Norway,so our cars are exposed to the worst thinkable conditions!
What I have found the best-by far is to use Carosol/Dinitrol/Tectyl etc. Brand isn't important..What IS is to use ONLY the THIN-stuff meant
for INSIDE hollow structures. Channels/frames etc
I stay OFF the heavy/thick stuff these same sells you for undertray etc as the stuff is too heavy in itself so after a while it sags and
leaves "pockets" where air and humidity accelerates the forming of rust.It still Looks to be ok so you are lead to belive all is ok and fine
which it is Not! as rust eats away in-between the floor-pan and the thick stuff..
USE ONLY THE THIN STUFF!!.It comes in 400gr spray-cans or you can buy it in 1l.cans to connect to your compressor.
I steamwash all undertray,take of the wheels,put a shoppingbag over the hubs and afterwards i let it dry out at least 24hrs if warm out-
side.Then it's an easy task to spray a nice covering layer ,2 or 3 layers where you know the stuff will see more wear and tear(fx:inside
wheel-arches,front and rear wheel-arc lower corners)
-Another good tip is to place the spray-cans in 40-45C.warm water bath before you use them as this will give somewhat better pressure
but most important:the stuff will creep and cover better) Do NOT get tempted to heat the
spraycans in other way as they Can explode!
I use to take off the wheels twice a year (nice to get it all cleaned out under there,adjust the brakes,check the gaiters etc at same time)
I lift the car ane side at the time (Never trust just the jacks!) it's then easy to renew the thin stuff just in case some is now thinning out
and the new stuff keeps the old stuff nice and soft so it won't dry and crack up on you!
(I normally use 2 ordinary spray-cans for this,which leaves the underside nice and shiny and ready for yet another year
-Best testament to my approach is that since I started doing it this way (8yr's ago)Roffen the F4 hasn't developed ANY rust as far as i can see....
-Reid.