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New MOT

The only accurate way to measure the temperature of an engine is by monitoring the temperature of the cooling water, so the temperature sensor fitted to the back of the cylinder head is quite frankly a waste of time as it merely measures the temperature of the aluminium that the head is made of, and warns of a problem far too late. Sorry Jonathan and Andrew. By far the best way to measure the coolant is to have a sensor in the waterpump, which measures the temperature before the thermostat so giving a true reading of the engine temperature. If the thermostat is set at say 82 degrees, just as the gauge registers that the thermostat should open, and if the temperature rises to 85 the fan switch should then cut in and so the fan should start up. As soon as the temperature has dropped by a couple of degrees the fan should stop. As long as the system has been completely bled of air, and the waterpump is in good condition as is the radiator, and there is no build up of sludge in the engine, all should be good.
 
Hi Cornish, as aluminium is such a good and fast conductor of heat, would there be such a difference in the temperature of the water/coolant and the aluminium head?

As much as I prefer keeping my car as original as possible, I think that a water temp gauge is a great idea, but I wouldn't mind one that "beeps":)
 
Hi mojobaby, I see where you are coming from, good point, but surely it is far better to have a sensor in the cooling water system to measure the temperature, it's much more accurate and more reliable than something measuring the ambient temp of the head. I'm told that the head temp sensors are very unreliable a cannot really be trusted.
Originality is all well and good, and I applaud anybody who can keep a car like that, in a museum, but if a vehicle is used on a daily basis in all conditions of weather and traffic and anything else that gets thrown at it, a few sensible modifications are a good thing, both for the vehicle and the driver. Fitting a temperature is a good idea. Good luck finding one that beeps at you.:laughing:
 
I mounted a sensor in the plate at rear of head as to me that spot surely must be the hottest spot with no cooling-effect
from air etc.I choose a VDO oil-temp sensor as it goes all the way to 150C.so should stand the coolant-temperatures well

-It's been working as should for the past 5 yr's. Moved it over to the R5TS 1400cc and still works nicely..
-What I would like next is an oil-pressure gauge,the sensor I had was just too big for the cramped space allocated fr it,so
I will have to put my thinking-cap on.. -Reid.
 
Possibly use a changeover switch to choose to see oil pressure or temp on one dual-scale gauge? Maybe a push-switch so that temp is usally displayed. Suitably challenging for the electronically-hobbied among us? Making a sensible/neat dual-scale may be the most tricky part though.
 
Good morning Reid, well that's a very interesting solution, at least you know what the temperature is.
On my previous 4 I fitted a remote oil pressure sensor on the bulkhead with a pipe leading from there down to the block where the usual sensor for the warning light is situated. The pressure sensor came with the gauge from Durite, and the small bore plastic pipe was made up by a local hydraulic company.
Adam, oh boy, you are making it complicated now:laughing:
Regards Brian.
 
As I've quit smoking the niftiest place to put 1 or 2 gauges is in the front of the ash-tray,they fit like a charm and as front is plastic
it's easy to drill a circle of holes then use a saw-blade to "dig it out" to fit. -Reid.
 
reidalpine said:
As I've quit smoking the niftiest place to put 1 or 2 gauges is in the front of the ash-tray,they fit like a charm and as front is plastic
it's easy to drill a circle of holes then use a saw-blade to "dig it out" to fit. -Reid.
Click to expand...

Have you any pics of what you have done ? about to look at doing mine in the next few days
 
there it is! -I went for a bit of luxury and got me some VDO's with chrome-ring. Your'e Way up-to-date with that power-outlet Paul. -Reid
 
I take if you took the "ash tray" bit off the back and then just kept the ash tray plastic front, how did you re-secure the face plate back ?
 
Hi Richnd -I drilled 2 small holes for umraco-bolts then bent a piece of metal into an L-shape to grab on to sides of ashtray-hole.Drilled holes in them and glued small nut at back. R.
 
Ah-ok I thought you gone all modern all off a sudden.. Wouldn't have taken it for an Italian car as No gang of FIAMM airhorns insight -R.
 
New MOT today which means another one on the road after being off for over three years :clapping: did fail the first time though on rear brake imbalance :( found out eventually it was the load compensator, why did they put it there :confused: anyway up and running and going to be my wife's car (and she's going to to call it Bessy :doh:), wheels have been blasted and now ready for painting :laughing:.
 
I removed the load compensator once in my student years and fishtailed across 3 lanes of the M1 on heavy braking in the wet after a lorry in front of me had shielded the traffic queue. Pretty damned important. Of course smaller cylinders in the rear brakes would have done the job too.
 
I have renewed everything from front to back but assumed that was ok but can't tell until they get it on the rolling road, handbrake was fine but not on the foot brake :(, some of the older ones just have a tee piece though
 
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