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The engine is back in the car and running. No oil leak any more. The relief valve seemed to be the problem. regards, Bart

What I have not mentioned yet: the oil pump was new. It came in with the plunger stucked. I did not check it because I supposed a new part would be ok. I have send an email to the supplier but no reaction jet. I had contact with the Nulon representative. The slightly higher pressure is normal...

More news. I have found the cause of the high pressure. In the oil pump is a relief valve if the pressure is too high (right Malcolm). It is a plunger with behind a spring. If the pressure is too high, the spring is compressed , the plunger goes backwards and a hole appears that brings the oil...

I have connected a pressure meter to the motor. Result: new pump gives more than 6 bar ( the needle is been round so more than 6 bar), the old one between 3 and 4 bar. Should be 1 bar or so. Something seems to block the oil circulation. The pressure is building up in half a minute. Tomorrow...

see post 5

The engine is out. Seen the first picture before :-) Oil is on the cam shaft and I think more as left over after filling. I also see the nulon. Not good. regards, Bart

I like the way everyone is trying to help me :-). Never thought of this one but sure it is bare metal.

I did connect compressed air to the oil filter mounting tube. I could hear the air comming out some where but not a lot of it. Used the nulon because I knew it would take me weeks/months to rebuild the engine and I was afraid common oil would leak out the bearings in the period between mounting...

I have been using the same brand of oil filter for years, Always the 3/4 thread. Don't ask why I am sure :-). I have also measured the part of the thread that sticks out and the oil filter can go far enough on the tread. I have tried two oil filters (different brand), same result: gasket pushed...

I have the 3/4 -16 thread. It is smaller as the M20. I am sure it is the right tread. If not, the filter would be pushed away, not the seal . Right? I have lubricated the seal. No plastic to remove. While building up the engine, I have lubricated all the bearings with Nulon Anti Seize Xtreme...

Yes, I have tried two new oil filters differerent brands, same result. I have also blown compressed air through the mounting tube of the oilfilter and heared a sissing sound so some channels must be open.

Hey, I have been following some threats here but have not posted a lot. I have a problem now so here I am. Last winter I have rebuild my 850 cc engine. Engine out and open, new bearings, seals and gaskets, liners and pistons, oil pump, etc... Engine painted, a lot of parts coated,… Engine...

I have solved the problem today and put some material between the suspension and the chassis. The camber is now 1° and by adjusting the toeout, the camber changed. I hope it is correct now. mvg Bart

I have changed the upper suspention arm, all the balljoints and the piece that is fixed on all the balljoints and the wheekdisk. No effect however. The measurement is still negative. So, this is becoming a very BIG problem. Has anyone an idea what the Renault specifications on this item where...

I do not know what toe-out is but the check out stated that only the camber was wrong. All the other measurements where within tolerance. I gonna check all the balljoints and hope that something is wrong. mvg Bart

I have bought a R4 TL 1986. No rust, just had to put in a new steering colum after an attempt to steel the car for a joyride. After that I found out that the camber of my left front wheel was not good. :( It is -0.45° and should be positive. Anyone an idea what can be wrong and more important...