Brake Pipe Replacement

[Sage103]

Brake pipes are the current focus of my GTL renovation - it already has some replacement copper pipes but needs new hoses and so far I haven't managed to separate any pipe to hose connections cleanly. So it now needs some replacement pipes. Now I've never previously made up my own brake pipes but was willing to give it a try and collected the necessary tools and parts. But I'm hesitating - having read various statements on the difficulties of successfully flaring pipes using DIY (aka cheap) tools.

Has anyone had experience of the complete replacement brake pipe sets available on eBay, e.g. Automec, as an alternative to getting individual pipes professionally made up?

 

[ggcton]

Brake pipes are the current focus of my GTL renovation - it already has some replacement copper pipes but needs new hoses and so far I haven't managed to separate any pipe to hose connections cleanly. So it now needs some replacement pipes. Now I've never previously made up my own brake pipes but was willing to give it a try and collected the necessary tools and parts. But I'm hesitating - having read various statements on the difficulties of successfully flaring pipes using DIY (aka cheap) tools.

Has anyone had experience of the complete replacement brake pipe sets available on eBay, e.g. Automec, as an alternative to getting individual pipes professionally made up?

I have bought automec pipes with no problems I have since bought a draper expert flaring tool no problems.So either route is OK If you are not confident perhaps go for ready made.

 

[mr-reno-139]

Renault 4 has had so many combinations of 3 or 4 pipe master cylinder metric and imperial unions then doubled because of lhd and the variants
Very much doubt you could specify ready to fit kit correctly
The worse ones to a cess are short ones compensator valve to rear flexible hoses
The metal retaining clips can be pain to remove undamaged I bought some stainless steel vw beetle ones from ebay fitted perfect

 

[AdamWilkes]

I have used this type with no issues on a few cars; it's not the cheapest but it is sturdy and simple in construction:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Br...372964?hash=item3ad3508624:g:ij4AAOSw2s1Utrln

Don't hesitate - making brake pipes is not difficult, just don't rush it.
Not sure on the size needed for Renault 4's - I've used all 3/16" so far!

 

[Sage103]

Thanks all for the advice. I'm going to invest in Adam's suggested flaring tool and give it a go. Meanwhile I had already found the same retaining clips that Paul had, and I am starting at the back so the compensator valve connections are a looming challenge!

 

[mr-reno-139]

On a gtl and all post 77 845 cars the y are fitted with metric unions on dual circuit master cylinder setup
Everything else is 3/8 unf
Which bizarrely have a 10mm spanner size from the factiry but now 11mm on new stock
Advise if it's got 4 pipe master cylinder to use a pressure bleeder and open nipple on master cylinder and do that one first

 

[Bobble]

Dam, if only i had known that Paul, the one i've just done i had a heck of a job bleeding them always did the furthest away first to nearest but managed in the end.

 

[Sage103]

My compensator valve - a right mess with corroded pipe unions (three pipes involved - pipework is ok, mainly copper, but destined to be cut for expediency). This, plus a nearside gearbox oil seal, is what will prevent me from getting the car back on the road anytime soon (everything else is good to go). So first step is to remove this valve and invest in a new replacement - I can see two nuts at the back end but what is hidden from view? Do I need to remove the petrol tank? I've already had it out, refurbished and reinstalled. Any advice would be appreciated.
(Ignore the second image - finger trouble!)

 

[mojobaby]

Hello Sage, I'm busy with mine now, it's a bit different from yours as I have 4 brake lines.

Have a look here
http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/look-what-i-found.5611/page-13

I was able to remove the unit with the fuel tank in place. There's just enough space to slide a spanner up between the tank and the chassis member to get to one of the nuts.

However, when I replaced the unit after cleaning it, I had to take the tank out. There was no way to get the nut back in position, just not enough finger space!

I'm trying not to replace my unit as they're fairly expensive, but in the end I'll probably have to as it's giving me endless problems.
I've had to remove it 3 times already!!!

Good luck with yours, it's a terrible job to do.

PS I have 2 bolts on the right hand side of the plate (one facing inwards/one facing outwards) and also one smaller bolt at the bottom left.

 

[Sage103]

Thanks for this info, mojobaby, as bad as I expected but could be worse! I'm already thinking spanner + blutac + nut to reassemble without removing the tank again but that might just be misplaced optimism.........