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NO LONGER NEEDED THANKS 354 column change gearbox ? HELP !

Jeepman 1943

Enthusiast
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71
Location
Grantham, Lincolnshire, UK
Further to my earlier post regarding an engine swap for my 1985 French F4, as some of you may know I sourced a NOS engine BUT it rotates the opposite way (anticlockwise) to my 850 one. I do not want 4 reverse and 1 forward gear but am reluctant to give up on the new engine. Can I get a gearbox to fit my van that runs anticlockwise ? More importantly does anyone have one for sale ? Total novice regarding R4's so advice gratefully accepted.
 
I have one for a transport R4 F4 or F6 that fits to a Cleon engine. But you will not be finished with just the gearbox. If you are lucky you won't have to change the hood. Cutting away the support struts will only weaken your hood. You'll need another radiator with the connecting hoses for a Cleon engine, two new engine mounts and another top traverse that goes over the engine to make the gearstick align.

Ill be happy to send over. But maybe look in the UK first.
 
I have one for a transport R4 F4 or F6 that fits to a Cleon engine. But you will not be finished with just the gearbox. If you are lucky you won't have to change the hood. Cutting away the support struts will only weaken your hood. You'll need another radiator with the connecting hoses for a Cleon engine, two new engine mounts and another top traverse that goes over the engine to make the gearstick align.

Ill be happy to send over. But maybe look in the UK first.
Thank you, but I think I will have to give up with the engine I bought and count my losses. It is time me and Renault 4's parted company. Thank you once again.
 
That's a pity Jeepman, when sorted they are great little cars. Personally I wouldn't be too hasty, I would sleep on it for a bit, and see what turns up. If your NOS engine is a 1108cc one, suitable for a GTL, it's very saleable, even as a spare for somebody just in case, and I'm pretty sure an engine for your car will come to light. Just a thought you could try Derek Flavell at Renospeed, he might be able to help you, or advise at least. Don't give up, good luck, regards Brian.
Just another thought, is your engine beyond a rebuild?
 
That's a pity Jeepman, when sorted they are great little cars. Personally I wouldn't be too hasty, I would sleep on it for a bit, and see what turns up. If your NOS engine is a 1108cc one, suitable for a GTL, it's very saleable, even as a spare for somebody just in case, and I'm pretty sure an engine for your car will come to light. Just a thought you could try Derek Flavell at Renospeed, he might be able to help you, or advise at least. Don't give up, good luck, regards Brian.
Just another thought, is your engine beyond a rebuild?

Thanks, no my engine runs ok, doesn't burn oil, use water or smoke but it is very lumpy at idle and very low revs making town driving unpleasant, the minute you accelerate it runs spot on. I have got half a shed full of parts I have purchased supposedly to fit MY van none of which are right, the engine was the last straw according to my wife :laughing:
 
Yes, I understand where you are coming from, us boys with our toys eh? Not wishing to teach my granny to suck eggs, but have you tried tinkering with the carb, maybe a blocked jet. Is the ignition timing ok?
 
Hello Jeepman. Suggestions.

1. If you like R4s then why not stick with them?

2. If you have a shedful of parts none of which fit, then you need to get a Parts Book for your model to check the parts serial numbers to ascertain what is and is not suitable. Then chuck/eBay/use this Forum to get rid of all the spares that are no use.

3. "Very lumpy at idle and at low revs" sounds like exactly the problem my 850 (845) machine has on occasions : dirty points and/or engine timing not right. When you get up to speed the first sorts itself out due to ionisation of the air inside the carb cover improving the transmission of the spark, and the second is taken care of by the distributor advance device.
Checking/adjusting the timing is straightforward, I deal with dirty points with a small file. Possibly also blocked carburettor. Last time it happened to me : about month ago. Now : runs fine. Damp weather doesn't help.

Whatever the actual cause, it sounds as if your engine problem may be quite minor, the sort of thing we all have to put up with with these vehicles. Buying a new engine (which, as Cornish4 says, you could easily sell on) is buying a steam-hammer to crack a virtually non-existent nut.
 
Hello Jeepman. Suggestions.

1. If you like R4s then why not stick with them?

2. If you have a shedful of parts none of which fit, then you need to get a Parts Book for your model to check the parts serial numbers to ascertain what is and is not suitable. Then chuck/eBay/use this Forum to get rid of all the spares that are no use.

3. "Very lumpy at idle and at low revs" sounds like exactly the problem my 850 (845) machine has on occasions : dirty points and/or engine timing not right. When you get up to speed the first sorts itself out due to ionisation of the air inside the carb cover improving the transmission of the spark, and the second is taken care of by the distributor advance device.
Checking/adjusting the timing is straightforward, I deal with dirty points with a small file. Possibly also blocked carburettor. Last time it happened to me : about month ago. Now : runs fine. Damp weather doesn't help.

Whatever the actual cause, it sounds as if your engine problem may be quite minor, the sort of thing we all have to put up with with these vehicles. Buying a new engine (which, as Cornish4 says, you could easily sell on) is buying a steam-hammer to crack a virtually non-existent nut.

I have replaced the carb, done the points, rotor arm, condenser, leads, timing etc.
 
Hi Jeepman,
My reply was not to discourage you from taking up this engine swap.
One of the members of the Dutch forum had the same problems with his Gtl.
In fact a lazy engine.
I went over to help him out. Turned out that the dwell angle was only 48 degrees instaed of 56.
And the timing was way to retarded. Although he set everything to the specs of the workshop manual.
Maybe check the point gap again. And after that advance the engine to the point that is just not pinking.
Then you should be okay for some more power and a pleasant ride.
I wish I could come and help you but it's a bit far to travel from the Netherlands.
The spare engine won't be a real problem to sell I think.
Can you take a picture of the original points maybe we can help you out to get the right ones.
Regards Robert.
 
Hi Jeepman,
My reply was not to discourage you from taking up this engine swap.
One of the members of the Dutch forum had the same problems with his Gtl.
In fact a lazy engine.
I went over to help him out. Turned out that the dwell angle was only 48 degrees instaed of 56.
And the timing was way to retarded. Although he set everything to the specs of the workshop manual.
Maybe check the point gap again. And after that advance the engine to the point that is just not pinking.
Then you should be okay for some more power and a pleasant ride.
I wish I could come and help you but it's a bit far to travel from the Netherlands.
The spare engine won't be a real problem to sell I think.
Can you take a picture of the original points maybe we can help you out to get the right ones.
Regards Robert.
Thanks Robert, I will take some pictures of the points tomorrow and post them, thank you once again. David
 
Sorry : when I said "dirty points" what I meant was corroded studs inside the distributor cap. A few seconds with the file fixed them.
 
Sorry : when I said "dirty points" what I meant was corroded studs inside the distributor cap. A few seconds with the file fixed them.
The cap looks ok but will try that and see how it goes, the new cap I bought turned out to be wrong too ! EVERY thing I buy for this car ends up on the "wrong part" shelf.
 
Hello Jeepman. If everything you buy turned out to be wrong, then you're making the classic mistake of relying on others (e.g. stockists) to make your decisions for you.

I repeat : you need to get a Renault Parts Book for your model, and then use the part numbers contained therein to get a trail to the correct items. First move : what is your model type? Look on the plate on the bulkhead in the engine compartment.

Here is a link to what I mean. If you can make intelligent use of the information in the book you're on the path to less frustration!
 
Hello Jeepman. If everything you buy turned out to be wrong, then you're making the classic mistake of relying on others (e.g. stockists) to make your decisions for you.

I repeat : you need to get a Renault Parts Book for your model, and then use the part numbers contained therein to get a trail to the correct items. First move : what is your model type? Look on the plate on the bulkhead in the engine compartment.

Here is a link to what I mean. If you can make intelligent use of the information in the book you're on the path to less frustration!
I have got to the point where I truly don't much care any more, I have owned all types of classics over a 40 year span NONE have been as much trouble as this is to buy parts for. How many sets of points did Renault really NEED to make for one range of car ??? I tried to get a parts book at the beginning but that too seemed to involve guesswork. Any other car I will gladly tackle but as soon as I need parts for THIS I start looking for a strong beam and a length of rope ! Luckily I have several other classics that I can rely on and get parts for, some of which are 75 years old yet if I want a part it's here within three days AND it fits. The van is running and driving so I will continue to use it until it eventually stops then maybe I will have the energy to attempt to track down spares.
 
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Hi Jeepman, I can understand your frustration, but as Benchseat says, don't rely on others to make the decision for you. They're just trying to make a quick sale.

Even in France, its useless going to the Renault dealers because they can't help. The guys that work there were born after Renault 4's went out of production.
If I need a part and have the part number then they can sometimes get it.

thats why when I need a part, for example a set of points, I go to the Der Franzose website because they have pictures of all their parts and a description of the part and for what vehicle its used on.
Not difficult at all and on 2 occasions I've phoned them for help. You just have to look at the part on your car and then match it up to the photo. Then write down the Franzose part number for the next time you have to order.

They do charge for postage, so I always order a few things at a time to cover postal costs.

Would be nice to see a photo of your car thats 75 years old:)
 
Have you changed manifold gaskets where it joins cylinder head
Very common problem on all r4 whatever engine size
 
Hi Jeepman, I can understand your frustration, but as Benchseat says, don't rely on others to make the decision for you. They're just trying to make a quick sale.

Even in France, its useless going to the Renault dealers because they can't help. The guys that work there were born after Renault 4's went out of production.
If I need a part and have the part number then they can sometimes get it.

thats why when I need a part, for example a set of points, I go to the Der Franzose website because they have pictures of all their parts and a description of the part and for what vehicle its used on.
Not difficult at all and on 2 occasions I've phoned them for help. You just have to look at the part on your car and then match it up to the photo. Then write down the Franzose part number for the next time you have to order.

They do charge for postage, so I always order a few things at a time to cover postal costs.

Would be nice to see a photo of your car thats 75 years old:)
Will persevere on this engine for now and take your advice regarding parts. Here is my 1942 GMC also got a '43 Ford Jeep and just sold a '46 Cadillac.
 
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