Project 1108 F6 engine

  1. harbourseal

    harbourseal Enthusiast

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Breda The Netherlands
    Hi All,

    I started a new project today.

    My F6 was struggling in France on the trip to Thenay. It turned out to have some compression issues on the third cilinder.
    Since it is a 956 Renault 5 engine with 44 Hp it should not have been outrun bij an F4 with only 34 Hp.

    We had an old 1108cc engine lying around that seemed to be stuck but was loose after all. I decided to use it for my F6. But it needs a complete rebuild.

    Today I started to take it apart and clean some of the bits and pieces fullsizeoutput_486.jpeg
    The engine as it was, dirty old and neglected. It came original from the GTL sinpar we rescued from a field.
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    With the original head gasket. It doesn't look al that bad.
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    Cilinder one was the culprit for it seizing lots of rust.
    All the other cilinders are filled with carbon flakes.

    IMG_2616.JPG
    Carbon and rust in the head as well, but the valves have not eaten in to the seats. So quite good to use.
    Nice clean up job.
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    Cilinder 1 looks like the previous owner used water as a coolant.
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    Inside the sump.
    IMG_2629.JPG
    Oil pump already cleaned.

    More parts are cleaned and in storage already until the new parts arrive.
    Ill be taking the crankshaft and flywheel to a machineshop to have them balanced.
    The head will be skimmed a bit for a little higher compression.
    The engine block is going to have a bath to clean it up.
     
    uaz04, JdeW, Jurjenz and 6 others like this.
  2. Jurjenz

    Jurjenz Enthusiast

    Messages:
    170
    Location:
    Groningen, Netherlands
    oehh, I love these kind of projects, please share your progress and keep it up!
     
  3. JdeW

    JdeW Enthusiast

    Messages:
    149
    Location:
    Laarbeek, The Netherlands
    Yesss, nice job Robert, I have suddenly a complete deja-vu looking at your engine rebuild ;)
    Greets Joop
     
  4. petak

    petak Enthusiast

    Messages:
    1,079
    Location:
    Vodice, Croatia
    i adore when project like this are fullfill with pictures, and good helpfull comments.
    Keep it going, please
     
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  5. harbourseal

    harbourseal Enthusiast

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Breda The Netherlands
    Update.
    After lazing around on the beach for some hours, I made my way to the workshop.
    Cleaned the cilinders with a fibredisc on an angle grinder and got the head ready to go off to the machineshop.
    I didn't get the broken of bolts from the water pump out but the engineer from the machineshop told me he'd get them out for me and re thread the holes.

    Of course some pics.

    IMG_2614.JPG
    broken bolts completely stuck long live electrolytic fusion.
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    Dried and rusty cilinders before cleaning all nicely numbered.
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    top of the cilinders also rusty
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    Fibre disc ready for play
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    The rust is gone, the pitting remains. Just some more surface for cooling.:whistle:
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    More permanent marking.
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    And the tops nicely cleaned.

    They can be of to the machineshop to to be honed lightly. There is some rust in the tops of the cilinders. But they are straight as a ruler on the inside. No need to replace them.
     
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  6. harbourseal

    harbourseal Enthusiast

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Breda The Netherlands
    IMG_2711.JPG IMG_2712.JPG IMG_2714.JPG IMG_2716.JPG IMG_2717.JPG IMG_2719.JPG I have the head back in the workshop.
    Asked to take the valves out for me. But they've done the work of cleaning and refitting for me.
    Only 1 valve was to be replaced.
    To much rust damage.

    The other ones are fine.

    Taken the new water pump out of storage for fitting.

    One small setback.
    The piston liners can't be re used anymore. Got a bit of a slap on the wrist from the old mechanic for cleaning the tops with a fiber disc. He says that the tolerance for the height is so small that I have a risk that they will leak.

    He will look for new ones for me.
    Learning is a costly process:doh:
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2017
    malcolm, Cornish4, AdamWilkes and 2 others like this.
  7. mojobaby

    mojobaby Enthusiast

    Messages:
    1,012
    Location:
    Lot et Garonne France
    Did he suggest how they should be cleaned? I used very fine sandpaper for mine
     
    harbourseal likes this.
  8. harbourseal

    harbourseal Enthusiast

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Breda The Netherlands
    I'll ask him when I get the new liners and let you know.
     
    mojobaby likes this.
  9. harbourseal

    harbourseal Enthusiast

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Breda The Netherlands
    He told me to use sandpaper next time.
     
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  10. harbourseal

    harbourseal Enthusiast

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Breda The Netherlands
    Some more progress and a small setback.

    The machineshop is not able to get new liners for me. They wil be ordered from the Dutch parts supplier http://www.renault4onderdelen.nl/We...ussen-+-zuigerveren-Mot-1108-cc--688-C1E.html

    I now have to figure out how to separate the connecting rods from the pistons and the new pistons back on without destroying them.
    Last time I tried some years ago I ended up with a destroyed piston and a perfectly good connecting rod for Mojobaby.

    Maybe someone has some ideas.

    I got the engine block back from the machineshop. They had it soak for some days to clean it up inside and out.

    Today I've taken off some of the flaky old paint and re sprayed it with heat resistant hamerite paint. And did the same with the sump. IMG_2909.JPG
    Back from the machineshop after bathing for several days
    [ATxxTACH]19657[/ATTACH] IMG_2911.JPG IMG_2912.JPG
    Sanded down the top of the engine with 400 grit sandpaper. It is smooth to the touch. Same as my wife's bottom
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    Masking for paint.
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    After painting with silver colored heat resistant hamerite
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    Sump cleaned inside and out and painted in the same tone.

    I chose this color because, You can see all the oil leaks if it starts to leak.
     
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    Last edited: Sep 23, 2017
    JdeW and Cornish4 like this.
  11. Cornish4

    Cornish4 Le Dazzleur

    Messages:
    1,302
    Location:
    Falmouth
    Hello Robert. I'm enjoying following the story of your engine rebuild as I'm planning on doing the same in the new year. I've located an 1108cc motor, and the idea is to totally refurbish it while I can still use my car, then around springtime do a swap over.
    I'll leave it to the "experts" to suggest how you remove your pistons, sorry buddy I can't help you there, but I look forward to the next installment.

    Regards Brian.
     
    harbourseal likes this.
  12. JdeW

    JdeW Enthusiast

    Messages:
    149
    Location:
    Laarbeek, The Netherlands
    Well Robert, the CIE starts to look nice and clean again but dis- and reassembling the connectng rod pins hmmm that's a small challenge.
    Youtube has some household video's but as the R4 connecting rod pins are really good shrink fitted you'll need a good press and dry ice (-78 degrees Celsius !!!) for the pins and heat for the connecting rod.
    It's time consuming and the job has certain risk factors so I'd suggest leave it to a specialist.
    But then the challenge to do it all by yourself is more rewarding at the end and gives you a learning curve and experience.

    Regards, Joop
     
  13. Jurjenz

    Jurjenz Enthusiast

    Messages:
    170
    Location:
    Groningen, Netherlands
    I think this is one of those jobs you better could do it by a specialist. It would be a real burner if you screw up! It cost me about 120 euros.

    Loving your progress!

    chreers,
    Jurjen
     
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  14. mojobaby

    mojobaby Enthusiast

    Messages:
    1,012
    Location:
    Lot et Garonne France
    This is the special tool for that job. I have the instructions on how to use it if you're interested (all in French)
    Screen Shot 2017-09-24 at 9.28.30 PM.png
     
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  15. mojobaby

    mojobaby Enthusiast

    Messages:
    1,012
    Location:
    Lot et Garonne France
    Hope this helps, but that tool is probably not available anymore
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  16. harbourseal

    harbourseal Enthusiast

    Messages:
    473
    Location:
    Breda The Netherlands
    And gotten somewhat further again.

    I found some ancient stock cilinder liners for the engine.
    The outside is dusted with rust but the inside of the liners are clean and the pistons are a bit dusty. But fine.

    I cleaned the seatings for the liners inside the engine block.

    Coming Monday I will take the pistons to the machine shop to get the connecting rods attached to the new pistons.
    28DA19D9-A91D-4273-A618-F2A972D4208F.jpeg
    Does anybody have an idea on how to stop the rust on the inside of the engine.
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    The liners shall be lightly honed and the tops cleaned with fine grit sandpaper
     
    Jurjenz, JdeW and mojobaby like this.
  17. JdeW

    JdeW Enthusiast

    Messages:
    149
    Location:
    Laarbeek, The Netherlands
    Good job Robert, and while still in engine restore and construction fase I'd smear a thin layer of engine oil on the inside to prevent rust formation. It won't harm any future cooling liquid whatsoever.
    Keep up the pace.
    Regards, Joop
     
    Richnd1974 likes this.
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