tow bar

  1. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
    hi, I am looking for a renault 4 tow bar - i have seen an 86 4GTL locally that I would like to buy. she will only need to tow quarter of a ton max, but without one I cannot tow a trailer to rallies, so it`s a no goer and back to 2cv`s. does any one know of a retailer or have a second hand one or the patterns for one please?
    on a different subject has anyone fitted a towing frame attachment to a 4 ? I am converting the merc to a camper, and the 4 is light enough to tow.
    thanks swampy
     
  2. Richnd1974

    Richnd1974 Enthusiast

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Bournemouth
    Is this the one for sale at SVWA ? Blue D plate ?
     
  3. benchseat Enthusiast

    Messages:
    229
    I have a R4 with a genuine Renault factory towbar, and this looks as if it has more solid attachments than the aftermarket ones. I'm not looking to sell the towbar but for various reasons (irrelevant) I might be removing it in the near future for fitting to another vehicle : in which case it could be used as a pattern.

    It would be interesting to know how many other members of the Forum might be interested in a genuine Renault factory towbar "clone" if I were to have one made up. The more made, the lower the unit cost, presumably.
     
  4. petak

    petak Enthusiast

    Messages:
    1,000
    Location:
    Vodice, Croatia
    JdeW and swampy like this.
  5. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
    thanks
    will do
     
  6. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
    yes
    I am retiring next month, and this will be my prezzy. I have played dyane and lomax 223 in the distant past, but not R4. read clementines buyers guide and did`nt see anything on it that frightened me ( except possible price- not impressed with people who buy for investment, we had the same issue with moggy minors in the 90`s) anything you know about this particular vehicle gratefully recieved
    swamps
     
    pepper likes this.
  7. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
     
  8. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
    thanks
    I will have a look at the pattern links posted, and scratch me head, but would be interested if someone is having a batch made. will get back to you if I win it- it`s in an auction
    cheers
    swamps
     
  9. Richnd1974

    Richnd1974 Enthusiast

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Bournemouth
    Its a nice looking example I was looking at it before I purchased my one last weekend
     
  10. Richnd1974

    Richnd1974 Enthusiast

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Bournemouth
    Having just purchased mine, things I would check again buying, door seal rubbers, I have to replace all mine and so ordered them up (80 euros) the exhaust is shot (180 euro) and then gear box oil seal, the top of the engine is dry but otherwise all good. Check the heater works also, and run each of the windows back and forth as these are also a weak point on my one and will need to be replaced. And what everyone else will tell you look out for Rot, mine was imported from the south of france and so it rot free, the D reg in Dorset though I would check every panel and sub frame. I am only up the road from you and so could be good to meet up if you get it !
     
  11. Paul Narramore

    Paul Narramore Enthusiast

    Messages:
    772
    Location:
    Aylesford, Kent
    Swampy, I was recently given a towbar which I've now fitted to my R4GTL. They are very simple devices which anybody with DIY skills could make. OK, I was given mine but would have gone the DIY route if I'd had to. Mine is so substantial, it will still be in existence even though the car might have rotted away ;-)
     
    JdeW likes this.
  12. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
    richard thanks
    I have read your posts and see you have minor teething issues , I am going back monday for another look. It`s in a gloomy warehouse, crowded by other cars and you are not allowed the keys. I still have to work out how to open the bonnet- there is a knob on a long wire sicking out of the dash in the heater area, I tried pulling that but nothing happened, so i have to have another go (thursday I was on my way to work and did`nt have a lot of time). The photos of the engine bay look good but they can be carefully angled. drivers window was fine but will check the rest, will look at seals, do you think hotter dryer climate has been unkind to your rubber and plastic, or is this typical? crawled around under rear (in overalls) with torch and all looks good. No mot advisories for rot except one a few years ago (NSF) & there is a receipt (all receipts from same garage) for nsf chassis weld about 3 years ago. did`nt see paperwork till after i had finished ( not kept with car) so also rechecking. I am in bournemouth visiting a friend today sometime so would be delighted to meet for brew / natter and get jealous of yours if you like. I would certainly be to my advantage as I am new to renault 4`s, and have no idea how to check gearbox seals except looking for evidence of leaks underneath, could save me overbidding on a problem motor
    swamps
     
    JdeW likes this.
  13. Paul Narramore

    Paul Narramore Enthusiast

    Messages:
    772
    Location:
    Aylesford, Kent
    Swampy, Push the bonnet opening knob don't pull it.
     
    Melissa, jjad and JdeW like this.
  14. JdeW

    JdeW Enthusiast

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    Laarbeek, The Netherlands
    Hello Swampy, after reading I'm sure there still will be a lot of work as I encountered on my purchase 3 years ago.
    R4's will rust from the inside out and won't often be visible, but when you see it on the outide...
    Keep in mind when purchasing a R4 that there are 4 types:
    There are four types of fours for sale:

    1) The Honest bad one - Here you can clearly see what is bad is often not as expensive but a good base for restoration.
    2) The not fair bad - In this car are the bad points smeared course is expensive and needs to be restored in the short term, often these are the cars where the buyer is disappointed to come off cost him where they had not counted on.
    3) The Good one - These are not cheap, but you also have a good, there is something wrong but that is usually overlooked.
    4) The in mint or competition one - Those are often not for sale.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2017
  15. JdeW

    JdeW Enthusiast

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    Laarbeek, The Netherlands
    That's a fact Paul, the tow bar iron is about 8 mm of steel and will eventually give us 56 mm of rust :laughing:

    But keep in mind that fitting a towbar is indeed a very simple DIY job, but I've seen what it can do on the rear support beam.
    For myself I will modify my new rear support beams before fitting my towbar again.:welder:
     
  16. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
    Doh!!
    its quirky and it`s french- I wouldn't be bidding if it were boring and same old
    I should have known better
    thanks
     
  17. swampy Enthusiast

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    dorset
    I have been offered a genuine one that goes all the way forward to the chassis
    if I get it then I will probably go down that route
    thanks for the advice
    swamps
     
  18. Paul Narramore

    Paul Narramore Enthusiast

    Messages:
    772
    Location:
    Aylesford, Kent
    JdeW, I guess what you are talking about are the unsupported bumper iron holes in the rear chassis legs? Yes I can see this isn't ideal and any weakness in the chassis legs and any gorilla spannering would start to crush the box sections. When I fitted my tow bar I used new stainless steel bolts and nyloc nuts withe the hefty tow bar and bumper irons one side of the chassis leg and big repair washers under the bolt heads plus a modicum of common sense when tightening, all should be well. But well worth a regular check.
     
    JdeW likes this.
  19. JdeW

    JdeW Enthusiast

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    Laarbeek, The Netherlands
    Yes, that's what I mean. For myself I'll do extensive surgery in the rear chassis legs. Think in terms of a extra reinforcement inside the rear chassis legs likewise as where the rear axle anchor plates are mounted.
    I will post an article in the near future with pictures as my chassis welding will start soon.
    Greets, Joop
     
    jjad likes this.
  20. benchseat Enthusiast

    Messages:
    229
    The towbars mentioned by e.g. "Petak" are not as robust as the genuine Renault article. This has supporting plates which fit round both sides of the chassis legs, so one can tighten the bolts up fully without worrying about damaging the chassis legs themselves.

    I've dug out an old part number for this item : 77 01 384 303. Possibly someone may be able to trace an illustration.
     
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