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waxoyl treatment

John M

Enthusiast
Messages
87
Location
Yorkshire
If you are considering getting your car professionally waxoyled the firm I used yesterday was Ultimate Car Paint Protection Limited. They did a great job and saved me crawling about on my back getting filthy. I did consider doing it myself and would have done it 20 years ago. I got a 5 year warranty with it as well so now I can go out in the rain with impunity though I will still avoid the roads when they have salt on them.
 
Prices online suggest £399 plus vat be good to know if that's good or bad.
 
I got it done for £420 inc VAT. I dropped the car off at 9am and collected it just after 2pm.
 
You can do it yourself for goodness sake. You will need a pump for the purpose and the waxoly stuff is best warmed a little so it flows better. Stick the hose/nozzle in your access points and away you go. Work furthest away and draw the hose back towards the access hole. Do the bottom channels of doors/boot lid but make sure drains are free by poking open once the waxoyl has solidified.
 
over here we see prices up to £600 for this job-Main thing is to choose the Right one to do it..
I know they promise the world on how they do it,If you ask to watch -maybe,just maybe in a
blue moon they do as said in blurb.We would have to back yearly for guarantee to be valid....

It Is messy to do it yourself ,but then you have the best chance to have a real good look under
there so you know the state of it,then you get the satisfaction of doing it -and you know How
it's done.

I buy those spraycans 600ml? at £7 each,3 or 4 will get it done,I refresh every spring -just a thin
layer to keep it soft and clingy
buy a One-time raincoat and face-mask ,remember to wear a cap or someth' or you'll end up with
a long lasting bryl-creme and a naff hair-do.

Best tip:whatever product you use-Use thin-stuff ONLY as it penetrates best where most needed
has the best capillary capabilities (creeps upwards)
and it won't sag by its shear weight like that thich heavy undertray stuff will.and let "air-pockets"
develope -as they will make the worst nest for rust to develope and thrive -Reid.
 
The old advice used to be Waxoyl mixed with paraffin or white spirit to thin it, then buy a pump-up garden spray from Wilkinsons and off you go. You might need to drill extra access holes, but hey ho, £400+ will buy you an awful lot of Waxoyl. Who cares if your attempts won't be quite as good a professional job, as it will be far far better than what is in there at the moment (rust, cobwebs......)
 
You do all realise this rustproof treatment is highly flammable and unless the car itself is 100%rust free the next hole that appears and needing any welding will result in a major fire
I accidentally set light to my rubber hose whilst warming the garden sprayer on a steel tray full of water over a camping gas twin burner
Not funny at all fortunately I was outside and nowhere near my chassis 20150801_144529.jpg
 
Best and by far safest way to warm the stuff up is put can or tin in a bucket of warm Not hot water (about 30C does it)
-I just read a test where wax-based stuff got least points compared to oil or paraffin-based stuff. bits of sheetmetal was
drilled and punched then treated as per instructions and left on a flat surface outside for 12 monts.Wax had been diluted
by rain and so left lots of untreated area where rust had thrived.. I don't know -just mentioning it -Reid.
 
So how much rain gets inside box sections of the chassis? I thought not. Anything must be better than cobwebs, condensation and neglect.
 
Hi Paul! A Lot! you'll have Lots of water in there from driving in the rain-gong over puddles,washing the car etc
plus the fact you'll have condensation on warm and humid days and dew on colder days plus the snow sleath
and ice half of the year.... -Reid.
 
Sorry, just my warped sense of so called humour. I always warm cavity wax in a bucket of hot water, and at a local garage I used to help out in the boys there mixed it with old engine oil. It makes the wax penetrate better, and go further cost wise. Yes, I know there is said to be acid in old oil, but it's a very minimal amount.
 
Hi Paul! A Lot! you'll have Lots of water in there from driving in the rain-gong over puddles,washing the car etc
plus the fact you'll have condensation on warm and humid days and dew on colder days plus the snow sleath
and ice half of the year.... -Reid.
Sorry Reid I disagree. I don't believe water sloshes around the box sections of the chassis. Where does it get in and out?
 
Paul,so how do you explain the fact that the R4 rusts from inside out if there is no water/moist/condensation in there? -Reid.
 
Only a tiny amount of moisture is needed to maintain corrosion (plus oxygen, of course). Given that the metal surfaces inside the box-sections and double-thickness spot-welded joints are unlikely (in manufacture) to have much paint on them - if any, then corrosion is inevitable from the start.

It doesn't matter if chassis members are full of water or visibly bone-dry, corrosion will carry on due to the high moisture-content of the air to which the chassis is usually exposed - inside and out. A misty day = loads of moisture (as much as air can carry, 100%); a normal summer's day here in UK probably has minimum 10-20% moisture still. Normal house conditions are around 10-15% moisture inside even with central hetaing. One water molecule touches the bare steel - yum yum, iron oxide starts growing.

With older cars, only those kept in desert-conditions and air at about 0% moisture survive rust-free.

Modern cars with galvanising can survive mostly rust-free for many years due to the protection of the Zinc coating that galvanising provides. The Zinc corrodes in preference to the steel (it is more chemically reactive with air/water), until the zinc has all gone from an area. Then the steel starts corroding. 'Modern' is mostly from the 1990's onwards for forward-looking car manufacturers (Volvo, Audi etc), otherwise from later on - most manufacturers now at least Zinc-dip the lower parts of their cars I think. It costs money and time, so I imagine as many car-makers as possible try to minimise the galvanising, but reputations can be broken if corrosion is rampant (remember the Alfa-Romeo Alfasud ?).
Aluminium only corrodes slowly (mostly in salty conditions) and plastic just slowly weakens - these are now used in places where normally was steel, so reducing the rust problem even more..

For the older cars in the world, some galvanising and other dipping or spray-injecting to coat all bare metal with an air- & water-impermeable layer is the solution, as we all realise.

End of lecture!
 
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