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That negative wire looks too thin and (although it's difficult to be sure, because of the angle of the picture) not properly routed. It looks too close to the fan, but, as I say, that might be an optical illusion.

The earth strap from the gearbox to the battery should be a very thick wire that can carry a huge amperage. Some cars have a braided strip fitted.

The following might help identify the problem: switch on the main beam headlights and then operate the starter. The headlights should go dim. If they don't, no power is reaching the starter motor. If they do go dim, power IS reaching the starter motor, but it's not spinning. To start, I'd look...

If you don't know how to set the timing I'll give you a method of roughly tuning it. Underneath the distributor is a circular clamp, that secures the position of the distributor once the timing is correctly set and I expect it's this clamp that's somehow become loose in the past. Once you have...

May I ask some questions before suggesting any help? 1/ Does the engine turn over? By this I mean is the block seized or not? 2/ Is the engine mounted in a car or is it free-standing? 3/ (not directly relevant to the engine...) where in Hampshire are you (and, presumably, the engine)?

The thick black lead connects to the large central terminal in the middle of the picture. The other end of this lead should be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery. The thinner lead, also with a "O" terminal, should also be connected to the same terminal. This lead carries...

I've sent you a personal message.

I'll be seeing the guy who does my welding jobs on Monday. He's based in the Barnet area but keeps talking of retirement.... I'll post a comment here after buying him a pint or 12, in an effort to delay his decision!

The M.O.T. has a minimum wattage for headlamp bulbs of 30 watts, although I never removed a bulb to check this! I did once test an ancient Skoda and subsequently discovered its main & dipped beam were 35 watts-blimey, those lights were dim! I don't think there's a maximum wattage, but I'll check...

I've been running my classic exclusively on Esso 99 octane since the introduction of E10 petrol. Apparently (and I cannot confirm this categorically) Esso 99 is better for classic cars, as it actually contains no ethanol, although, for legal reasons, Esso are obliged to advertise it as "E5" The...

Trés atmospheric!

Sam, whereabouts in London are you? Depending on your location I may be able either to recommend a garage or offer assistance myself.

One presumes you also paid Cornish Import Tax as the items passed over the Tamar..... LOL!

If Sweden to leave the E.U., would that be called "Sexit"......? Sorry!

I should add that since Brexit I've imported parts from Dafhobby in The Netherlands (for my Daf 33), Pragos in The Czech Republic and Skopart24 in Germany (both for my 1961 Skoda Octavia Super), all without any problems and with extremely quick delivery times. The only funny thing was a remark...

The German company has it correctly organised (an example of German efficiency!) and the Italian one does NOT. As the German site says, they export goods from the E.U. without V.A.T., which is then added by the U.K. Customs at this end. The Italians seem to have it back-to-front (I was going to...

A "drive by" in a Renault 4....... I think not!

This is how it works: When the United Kingdom was a member of the European Union good and services traded within the various countries within the Union were not subject any charges over and above those that would be charged on goods and services moving within the same country. Put simply...

Go for the yellow ones! Trés chic et trés Francais!

You don't need to adapt a bulb. A P45t (note the 45, not 43) bulb is a 60/55 watt halogen one, with a circular fitting! I've been fitting these to my cars for years and they work perfectly. You gain halogen power and light without compromising the originality of the fitting, although I should...