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Slight ‘wobble’ noise from front end...

laxeian

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Hi,
Been driving my F6 around since bringing it home last Friday, TBH the roads around my home are very different to the only long trip its been on and the roads from where the van spent all its previous life, Toledo is very flat and dry, car was only used on short urban trips, where I live its costal mountain B/A roads, lots of twists and turns and inclines etc.
Driving it Sunday noticed whilst driving it it had what felt and sounded like a warped disc type noise, don’t think its drive shaft related ( noise doesnt dissapear when coasting straight out of gear, doesnt get louder in on direction or other on steering lock,but remains in ‘background’),
Monday bought some new discs, changed yesterday, bearings looked to be Ok ( assumption on my part on inners),bearings on stubs after cleaning old grease off looked and felt to run fine, replaced discs, repacked grease, reassembled.
Took it out today, brakes fine, wobble/hum still there, with new discs after bedding them in on outward journey, noticed that if I stab the brakes it pulls slightley to left, to me indicating suspected play (wooble/hum=problem) is on that side.
Am I right in thinking now Ive elimimated the brakes Im dealing with a dodgy inner bearing one side?, I cleand up both sides suspension and driveshafts when doing discs, checked all bushes and balljoints for play with pry bar,( its still got the factory paint on all of the suspention,even down to colored paint marks on bolts and balljoints!, will photo and start ‘project’ thread...)
Would prefer to know any other likely candidates while Im ordering bearings to order same time so all likley things are eliminated before I have to go to the expense of having a new driveshaft (driveshafts both appear ok, gaiters sound, the side i supect the grease was dryer than other side in bearing/stub outer bearing appeared fine)
Second opinion anyone ?
 
Hi Laxeian

You might have done this already but to rule out the bearings and to check for play elsewhere in the steering and suspenson at the same time, jack up the car, grab the wheel with both hands at half past twelve (as if wheel were a clock face) and check for play, then grab the wheel at quarter to three and do the same. Spin the wheel to check for hum, tell tale sign of worn bearing. Another component which wears and it sometimes overlooked is the tie bar bush (oval shaped, on lower suspension side of front subframe to front of car). You mentioned it was pulling to one side when you brake, which could indicate a seized or sticking brake caliper, the caliper guide bolts also seize, if so clean with emery and slight coating of copper grease. If I think of anything else I will get back to you.

Best Regards
 
Thank you for your reply.
Just back from lifting and following your described checks, good news,the tie bar bushes appear to be in fine fettle, I did overlook them when checking.
Bad news, but not really bad just confirmation, looks as if the inner bearing on the suspected (left hand) side is shot.
So new bearings required, sorced one kit on a Spanish site last nite (an old still packaged Q/A kit), but hopefully the local parts supplier will be able to help(hes actually had discs in next day and all four brake flexes off the shelf!)
Next question, to remove the inner bearings the driveshaft appears to have to be removed from stub carrier, looking at it will it come out so I can remove rear plate/bearing if I just undo steering balljoint or is there more that needs to be dissasembled to gain access to rear bearing, also is it necessary to replace any seals gearbox end of driveshaft if Im removing it hub end or should existing be ok ?
 
Hi Laxeian

It can be done in situ. You are right the driveshaft will have to be disconnected from the stub axle but you can leave it in at the gearbox end to avoid losing gear oil. Procedure: unlock driveshaft lock nut whilst car is still on the ground via plastic wheel center cap hole (easier if you don't have access to air tools to do when jacked up and on stands), unlock wheel nuts, jack up car and place car on stands, remove wheel, remove brake caliper and tie up brake flexible hose to a suitable fixture to avoid stretching the hose, remove track rod end and top ball joint lock nuts, use extractor to separate track rod end and ball joint from stub axle. When the above are all disconnected, be ready for the stub axle to drop towards you and support to avoid unnecessary pull on the driveshaft ( it might be necessary to replace the driveshaft locking nut and screw on by hand a few turns and then gently tap the end of the driveshaft, it should start to separate from the hub/stub axle, remove the lock nut, you should then be able to extract the driveshaft from the back of the stub axle by hand, you can then rest it to one side away from the stub axle but still connected at the gearbox end to avoid losing gear oil. You should then be able to view the inner bearing back plate secured by x4 13mm spanner size nuts, remove, prise off back plate (when refitting this plate later when new bearing is fitted, clean inner side with emery and also clean mating surface stub axle side, coat inner side with instant gasket to avoid the ingress of water and dirt in the future which often are contributory factors to the wear on the bearing) you now have access to the inner bearing but to remove, you will have to remove the hub using a suitable drift to tap out. Once the hub is removed, you will be able to tap out the inner bearing from the inner side of the stub axle. I personally would change both the inner and outer bearings at the same time. However, you would need a suitable bearing extractor to remove the outer bearing from the hub. In answer to your last question nothing would need replacing at the gearbox end. I hope this helps.

Best Regards
 
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