Points Adustment Problem

[mojobaby]

When I set my points gap, I use a feeler gauge, and the gap is perfect until I tighten the adjusting screw.
As I tighten it, the gap size decreases from 0,4mm down to 0,2mm or less.

I've always had this problem and have to set the gap larger and hope that when I tighten the screw, it
ends up at 0,4mm.

Today I got to wondering if there is supposed to be a washer under the screw, between the screw head and the points. Perhaps this would facilitate the turning of the screw so that it doesn't drag on the points.

From the photo, you can see that there is one screw in place (I've always had that), but there is place for another screw. Are there supposed to be 2 screws?

 

[Cornish4]

What a pain in the proverbial. I've never noticed a washer used on any car I've had, I might be wrong though, but perhaps in this instance it might do the trick. I'm thinking maybe a star washer might be best. Not sure about the other threaded hole, two screws would be a bit belt n braces. Why not throw those dreaded points away and convert to electronic ignition. Just a thought.

 

[André4Renaults]

Having looked at the picture it could be that the other hole allows another screw to ensure the point parts remain completely parallel to each other. Without this it's possible the fixed half of the points may not be in complete contact with the moving part & this would cause an inaccurate reading when setting them.

It also looks as if something ought to be screwed into the hole adjacent to the bottom of the letter "D" in the middle.... Maybe this is a securing screw, too....

 

[Geoff in the Gully]

One can imagine a screw with an eccentric lobe on the shaft going in the spot near the D and being used to move the points to and fro. The screw pictured then being simply to lock the points in position.

 

[mojobaby]

I put a new set of points in today and for the first time noticed grooves in the old points surface made by the screw. More than likely, from tightening the screw too many times!
So when I adjusted the points gap and then tightened the screw it forced the points back to the old position, where it was comfortable.

As Cornish suggested, a star washer worked the best; I think it grips better.

As for the extra hole, Andrew and Geoff, it doesn't even have a thread, as I discovered this afternoon when I tried to fit a screw to it. I've no idea why it's there, but indeed, a screw with an eccentric lobe would have been a good idea; especially for finer movements.

I generally hate anything that says electronic. Have you ever tried to fix a CD player or washing machine? Circuits and solder instead of wires doesn't work for me. I'm very "old-school" although everyone on the forum seems to love electronic ignitions.

and here's a photo of the new points with the star washer. I think I'll be carrying a set of feeler gauges and a screw driver for the next week or two before I'm confident that the points won't slip out of position again.

 

[angel]

The slot is there so that the dimple visible on your last photo engages in it and does not allow the fixed point to pivot around the screw. No second screw was fitted ever.

Micro adjustments were supposed to be done with a special tool that engaged on the C-shaped slot and the hole under it. I can't imagine why they didn't make an arrangement so that a flat blade screwdriver could be used instead, like other distributor manufacturers did.

The same disributor when fitted on the late 845 engines ('84-'86) has a spring loaded fixed point that can be moved from the outside of the distributor via a long screw. If one has access to a dwell angle meter, he can set points gap with the engine running in seconds.

 

[Cornish4]

I'm glad the star washer worked for you mojobaby, and I do understand your feelings about electronic ignition. If it fails, you are not going anywhere, but with points and condenser you can have a fiddle, or replace them at the side of the road. Even with Elec Ign fitted I still carry the mains to convert back to points on the road just in case. That may sound daft but it makes sense to me.

 

[André4Renaults]

I can see the "dimple" on your second photograph and can appreciate that it does, indeed, hold the fixed part of the points parallel as they come together. I must admit I couldn't see the dimple in the first photo & thought it was a screw hole, but it serves the purpose.

As for measuring the points gap accurately, would you consider the use of a dwell meter too electronic? if you do use one you can obtain a much more accurate settings.

 

[mojobaby]

It makes perfect sense to me as well, Cornish! I carry a special little kit under my seat with a couple of screw drivers and certain size spanners, just in case.

I'm not at all adverse to using a dwell meter, Andrew, I only have a problem when things break and its impossible to repair them. I find that very frustrating! But even if one did use a dwell meter and found that the points needed adjusting, you would still physically have to open up and reset the points. No accuracy guaranteed and one would have to revert to a second reading of the dwell meter.

The perfect distributor would be the one that Angel mentioned, the one that is used in the 84-86 845cc. That can be adjusted from the outside via the long screw. As soon as I read that, I ran outside to look at my 845cc. It's a 1983 and unfortunately seems to have the same distributor as my GTL

Thanks for all the help and info

 

[harbourseal]

Magnetti Marelli and SEV Marchal made those easy adjustable distributers for the Cleon Fonte engines. I didn't know they made them for the Billancourts to.