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Great firewall of china isn't being helpful. I guess search ebay for 3 stud wheel spacer and choose something thin. Most will have multiple holes for different numbers of studs and spacings.

You can buy thin wheel spacers about 5mm thick. They won't affect the steering noticeably.

Some ride height measurements taken by other members here https://www.renault4.co.uk/tech-ride-heights.htm

Just in case of measurement error - continuity measurements will give false readings if the ignition is switched on.

You can get the coolant light without overheating - it comes on first but only just. Check the coolant wire isn't shorting on the exhaust manifold. That would turn the light on.

Do the holes not line up because the mounting has moved sideways? You could try loosely fitting the bolt at the bottom and then tensioning the torsion bar until the other two line up.

Angel's link is well worth reading through again: https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-set-front-ride-heights.5693/#post-33719 The torsion bars are tensioned even with the suspension at full droop and the factory tool for tensioning the bar is a long bar with an octagonal head that...

It's unusual to be intermittent and not happen at idle. Well worth measuring the battery voltage when running to see if you get 13.5V or so, and if possible tape the meter to the bonnet and see if it changes when the light comes on. That would pick up any loss of function of the alternator...

Continuity test doesn't work when you have voltage

Sounds like it should work. Is there a ground missing? Plug grounded to engine as you test and engine grounded to battery.

Battery should be to positive of coil not distributor.

Good to hear news about Blanche. Do post some photos in her new home. Bluebell bought her from Glasgow in maybe 2005 and took her to France (dept 71). She came back here after the liner seals failed and I rebuilt the engine then passed her on to Richard who fitted some other shiny bits...

Figured it out (I think). The fuel level in the feed pipe was falling below the pump so I was pumping air. The pump isn't even priming now when I try to start so it's going to be a bad fuel pump. Going to try replacing it with an electric fuel pump.

I checked the float valve and it seemed OK and I cleaned it up and blew air through just in case. Blew air through the filler cap vent hole just in case. The car seems to be working but I'm not sure I found any problem. Probably is going to be something that got stuck or something to to...

I'll have a look at the float chamber valve. If it is sticking closed I can see that causing the problems I had with both starting and driving.

There is a weird thing going on with the Rodeo. I took it out to the supermarket at the weekend for it's first trip of the year (7km). It took a long time to start when I got back to the car. I moved it to the petrol station and filled up and it took a couple of minutes to start. Drove...

Blimey. I sprained a wrist and was out of action for just a few days and I found that annoying enough. Your injury must be very frustrating.

I think that kit is for the early R5. Yours will surely be based on the Super 5 and have a transverse engine. Cable linkages were common in the late '80s but I'm not sure what was used in the Super 5.

LED tail light bulbs are easy and they make a lot of sense. Just buy some and replace the original bulbs for extra brightness. Indicator bulbs are more difficult as they require a different flasher unit, and it's tricky to find one that allows the indicator warning on the dash to work...

You can test for a blocked main jet. Car should run to some extent on throttle with the choke but not without the choke.