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That's quite fun. The Late Brake guy is a car enthusiast so always good to watch, and it's good that kits are available just in case petrol engined cars become illegal at some point in the future. Not sure the battery location would suit Claude the F4 very well.

I run 145/80/R13 on all of mine. Uniroyal RainExpert are my current favourites. This makes the tyres slightly larger diameter than the originals but the speedometer is accurate. There should be no rubbing problems with 145 tyres.

I would be wondering about the carb too. Normally when you have fuel vaporisation the fuel boils off through a breather. The boiling should never force fuel out of any overflow. Hot restarting is typical for the R4. Good to see another heatshield there. I did some work on fuel...

That's a really neat idea and nicely made. It's amazing the R4 didn't have those as standard and hot starting is always a pain.

There is a hose that connects to the inlet manifold behind the carburettor. This should have a plastic piece inside that limits the inside diameter of the hose to about 1mm to restrict airflow. I would check that is in place first as it tends to be deleted if the hose is replaced. Do you...

Here is a LHD. The cable runs under the gaitor but is inboard so there probably isn't much movement in the gaiter at that point. Mine has been apart in the past - I'm sure there is supposed to be a P shaped bracket attaching the cable to the gearbox. Or maybe just that spring in Andy's photo.

As above it'll be the rear light earth connection on the side there the indicator is switching other lights. There is no separate earth wire - the earth is through the lamp housing bolts to the rear wing. On one type of light housing the earth also tries to travel through rivets. For this...

If the starter turned at normal speed when you jump started the car then it can only be bad battery or dirty battery terminals.

From memory the jets were originally 91 (0.91mm). But that doesn't matter as fuel has changed and something around 97 or 97 would work a lot better with modern fuels. I'm looking for one too. There are a lot of jets on eBay but I'll need to remove a jet to check size and shape before...

A lot of Lotus cars used the 336 box so worth a look among that crowd too. There will be more Lotus than R15 left. Is it like the R4 box where the clutch cable attaches to a lever on the gearbox and the shaft the lever connects to seizes? For the Renault 4 when they were newer the shaft...

I've had a look at backups and old computers and can't find the curve. It was 10 years ago and I think I messed around with it on the car and didn't finish so didn't save anything. The starting point from a spreadsheet I was messing with (with the distributor timed on the timing mark which is...

I used a 123 tune (programmable) in my Gordini. AT the time it was only available from a company modifying them in France (https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/r5-alpine-123-tune-programmable-distributors-available.6893/) but it now looks like it is available from 123. The programmable...

The trouble I've had with original distributors is the advance springs no longer give the right advance curve. I've also used 123 ignition which replaces the whole distributor.

14V across the battery sounds about right when the engine is running.

I've tried replacing the rubber cover in the past. The modern balljoints aren't designed to accept new rubber covers and the quality of cheap rubber is terrible and it only lasts for one year. Better replace the balljoints. For the driveshafts often the replacement boots are 'universal' and...

I've run into the same trouble. I was fortunate to find an old stock driveshaft but these aren't going to be available for ever. It's a bad design - there isn't enough clearance between the driveshaft boot and the wishbone. Add to that a replacement ball joint and the clearance might be...

The temperature spec is important. Having the fan come on at the right temperature is pretty well the point of having the fan, and with the sensor in the bottom of the radiator it needs to come on at a lower temperature than if it were in the top of the radiator. Worth getting the right...

Bad fuel economy could be a few things. The exact distributor shouldn't be so important and it's possible to run a 32DIS on a R4 distributor and get 40mpg. Assuming the static timing is set correctly have you checked vacuum advance? If you take the distributor cap off, remove the vacuum...

Likely the shoes came away from the piston when the drum was pulled off. I've lost too many fingers to try to remove springs in situ. Pull the shoes outwards from the slave cylinder then upwards and away from the bottom retainer. All with the springs still attached.

The small bracket with the hole on the right side of the photo is a throttle cable mounting for LHD cars. It wasn't normally fitted to RHD cars made in France, but yours might have been made somewhere else.