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This is a perennial question whenever "A" frames are discussed. I've used an "A" frame for many years to move cars, a fair proportion of which weren't roadworthy. I've never towed anything I thought would be dangerous and I always made sure all the lights attached to the back of the recovered...

Is the car roadworthy? I've an "A" frame and a Subaru Forester, complete with amber beacon lights, trailer lights and magnetically attachable number plates. A Forester can pull a house down without breaking sweat! Any help? P.M. if it is.

As Father Ted would say: "careful now..." Remember, petrol is dangerous stuff!

This answer might seem a little "left field", but may I ask which brand of E5 you've been using? I mention this because Esso "99" was, until recently (and may possibly be still) ethanol-free. For various legal reasons Esso were obliged to sell it as "E5", but in fact it was "E0". I use this in...

If the engine cuts out on over-run (ie; when coming to a halt at lights without the accelerator being used) It maybe running weakly, so turning the mixture screw a quarter turn OUT would enrich the mixture a little. It's also possible that the engine's timing is a tad retarded, so check that as...

+1! If the engine cuts out on over-run (ie; when coming to a halt at lights without the accelerator being used) It maybe running weakly, so turning the mixture screw a quarter turn OUT would enrich the mixture a little. It's also possible that the engine's timing is a tad retarded, so check...

How right you are! As I said, it was an "old school" method I learnt as an apprentice mechanic in the 1970s, when things were less stringently controlled! Another method of cleaning a carburettor is to remove it from the car, drain any excess fuel from it and (having first ensured your wife...

Based on the pictures you've posted the oil looks clean and not emulsified, so it doesn't look as if a mixing of oil and water has occurred within the sump. The "salad cream" look to the oil filler cap is often indicative of low speed or cold running, and may be cleared once the engine has been...

I'd start by investigating the carburettor. Perhaps one of the jets has become blocked? An unorthodox method of clearing the jets, used by "old school" mechanics is to remove the air filter box and then start the engine and rev it up, then slam one's hand over the carburettor throat. The huge...

If you've other bulbs flashing when your indicators are on you have a defective earth somewhere. What should happen is this: the current from the flasher travels to the lightbulb, lights it & then passes to earth, through the car body, thereby completing the circuit. In your case the bulb is...

Would the be the same Villiers engine as was used in early Bond cars in the 1960s? As I recall, the engine was a 250cc Villiers 2-stroke motor, which was mounted on the front axle and turned with the steering. I've probably not recalled all of this correctly, but if I have, I'll attempt to offer...

One of the leads that controls the ignition light on the dashboard connects to the alternator, so have a look at the connections and check that they're all clean and tight. Alternatively you might have a defective earth in the dashboard itself, and current may be earthing out through the...

It could be an air leak. When the throttle is opened the air flows through the carburettor and when closed a little air does flow through the carburettor but the engine produces a higher vacuum on over-run (throttle closed) than when under load, so if there are any small air leaks in and around...

Varta batteries generally have a higher Ah rating than other brands, for a given size. They're therefore better on really cold mornings.

Agreed 100%! The "ouch" factor when fitting & removing brake shoes is always a large one and it's a pity workshop manuals don't explain this way of changing them!

I'm not sure if the D.V.L.A. still offer this service, but about 8 years ago I bought a Daf 33 and, after registering the car in my name, contacted the D.V.L.A. for any information they held on it. For (I think!) a fiver they sent me copies of all the documents they held, including the original...

Ouch! Is the top of the bolt exposed or did it break inside the cylinder block? I presume the bolt was a new one and not an old one being re-used. it's possible some detritus was at the bottom of the bore, thus affecting the torque reading, but, either way, this is a setback.

Agreed 100% with Angel. As to oil, I'd suggest a good quality "classic" 10/40 oil, made by say, Castrol or Millers. As the the sealant, as Angel says, if everything's been machined properly there's no need for an extra sealant, so don't use that, although a light coating of copper grease on...

I remember a device somewhat like a heater element that one stuck to the bottom of the windscreen. The heat rose from it, to clear the screen of mist and frost. Not being dependant on the car's heater it worked instantly once the engine was on. I think it must have drawn a HUGE amount of...

Isn't that a type of crisp? No, wait a minute, they're NACHOS!