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Follow the accelerator cable and see where it's connected to the carburettor; a screw adjuster near this point is the slow running adjustment, and winding this screw in increases the tick-over speed and vice versa. Further away from this screw, lower down on the carburettor is another screw, and...

I can recommend Carburettor Exchange, in Leighton Buzzard, who have done refurbishments for me in the past: https://www.carburetterexchange.co.uk/

Continuity testing is usually marked by an Omega symbol, the highest setting is normally 2M ohms. To test you're on the right setting, touch the two terminals together and the meter should read "O" and when apart they should read "1", which means when touched there's NO resistance (dead short)...

The only definitive way to confirm whether the points are functioning correctly is to remove them from the vehicle, but if this is impractical, one can proceed as follows: disconnect the lead that runs from the distributor to the coil and attach one of the lead from the multi-meter to it. Now...

Just a thought, but are you sure the ignition's functioning correctly? If there's a "hiccup" as you depress the accelerator the problem may lie with a worn out condenser/capacitor. On tick-over the capacitor can handle the current, but as the revs increase the rapid loading and unloading becomes...

Let's have some pictures of your 1962 Renault!

Most accessory shops sell a universal radio holder, which can be attached to the underside of the dash or to the front of the heater box. The radio/CD player would slot into this in a metal casing-it's not tricky. As to wiring it up, the aerial's the hardest bit, as this involves drilling a...

Spraying a liberal amount of aerosol lubricant through the hole might help, but remember to clean throughly everything once you've taken the assembly apart.

Having had a long think about this I can only suggest bypassing the ignition switch and dashboard wiring by running a wire from the "+" 12 volt terminal on the battery, straight to an in-line fuse and then to the "+" terminal on the coil, using a clip to hold it in place. This would remove any...

A typical value should be between 0.4 and 2 ohms. A lower reading would suggest there's a short circuit in the coil and a higher reading suggests a partial break somewhere in the wiring. I'll await your answer to the resistance reading.

O.K., we're making progress.... Next questions: 1/ What is the resistance across the coil? To find this, select the maximum resistance setting on your multi-meter (usually 2M ohms) and connect the leads to the two small terminals (the "+" and "-" terminals of the coil) What is the reading and...

I'm not sure this IS the cause, for the reasons outlined by others. As I recall the Renault 4's ignition system's isn't fused, so any short-circuit would cause smoke and possibly a fire, as has been suggested. I would carry out the following checks, in this order: 1/ Examine the coil; there are...

The terminal on the side of the distributor body should be insulated from the body itself. The terminal is there to allow the points to connect to the wire without touching the distributor body (it also allows the capacitor to be connected in parallel) My next "port of call" would be that small...

Does the short happen when BOTH the wire from the coil AND to the capacitor are connected to the terminal on the side of the distributor body? Try only connecting the wire from the coil and doing the same tests; if the problem disappears then you've solved it-your capacitor is the problem and...

Agreed! The spring-loaded points sit on the post that sticks up from the base of the distributor body, but without a washer; the insulation is provided by the plastic sleeve that slides over the post. As the plastic sleeve is slightly longer than the metal part of the points this insulates the...

This screw acts as the earth return for the capacitor, so must NOT be insulated. The metal clamp around the casing of the condenser is tightly held in place this screw, which earths the body of the capacitor. The points and spring should sit on plastic; they ARE insulated from the distributor...

As the screw's the correct one to use I'd be tempted to add a small washer to the outside, to shorten its length inside the distributor body. In this way everything else would be at tight as before, but the screw would no longer be able to contact the points spring.

It sounds like we've (you've!) isolated where the problem is. Yes, there seems to be a short-circuit, as the points act like a switch; their opening and closing switches the coil power on and off. To start with, I would remove the points and then re-fit them, making SURE the side connected to...

If you've no spark at the plug when the plugs earthed to the engine block & the engine's turning over there's no H.T. current reaching the plug. I'd suggest going back one stage and confirm there's 12 volts at the coil's "+" terminal when the ignition's on. If there is, open the distributor &...

Yes, you need to change only ONE thing at a time! Here we go: Check the following, in the following order: 1/ Is the timing "spot on"? Check it is and, if it isn't, adjust accordingly. 2/ Remove one of the sparking plugs and rest it on the top of the engine, with its H.T. lead still connected...