Best model year for electric conversion ?

[Seabadger]

New member here, so please be kind. I have a large range of Renault 4s to choose from, being in France. I am probably going to have to move back to the UK so was thinking to bring a R4 with me to convert to electric. Rfit here do the GTL, Clan and Savane as offically allowed conversions, but is there any year or model that wise members think would be most suitable? I'm inclined towards later models with better brakes, but connection to transmission is clearly a major factor as nothing seems available off the shelf.
Thanks for any feedback on this .

 

[jjad]

I don't have any experience of electric conversion, but a later model with disc brakes at the front would make sense. Later models are also more likely (but not necessarily) to be in better condition.

 

[Seabadger]

Thanks. I think you're right, a newer one is more likely to be in original good nick. The French rules mean that Rfit have probably chosen the models that are most numerous. It costs them a fortune to get them homogolised (?) -probably not the right word- and the homogilisation is very specific. They might be able to bolt their kit straight into an F6 van, for example, but because weights are different they couldn't make it legal without going through the whole process for the F6, another few hundred thousand euros so probably not considered worthwhile.

 

[dg]

I have converted a 1968 850cc. I wouldn't say connection to the gearbox was necessarily the biggest problem but may be less expensive on later models with a bellhousing as it should be possible to use a flat plate. Also the later gearbox is stronger. If you did want to do an 850 then I would be happy to let you have my adapter design and point you in the direction of someone who could make it up for you.
Braking is not necessarily a problem as AC motors come with regen braking, which is very nice and feels like a servo on an ICE car.
One thing to consider is that there is limited room to fit a motor in, so you will need to find a short one or possibly do away with the clutch, as I did.
In the UK the DVLA is now very down on conversions so you would need to make absolutely sure that you did not modify the chassis in any way. Even drilling a hole could catch you out, so you need to use only existing mounting points. The Rfit conversion may be a good way to go, if it can meet this requirement, as it is very cheap although quite basic with limited range.

 

[Seabadger]

Thanks for the feedback and offer to share your adapter designs. I'll bear that in mind if I end up with an 850. I guess I'll be buying on condition. From what you say the later gearboxes are more suitable/easier for the manufacture of an adapter? The Rfit price relies on getting the maximum grant from the government which means having the minimum income.
I'm interested to hear that you have gone clutchless. Is the syncro and gearchange good on the standard ICE versions? I had a Mk 1 Toyota Starlet and you could shift up and down with no clutch easily. That would have made a good clutchless conversion.

 

[Seabadger]

Oh, and can I ask what motor you are using?

 

[dg]

Thanks for the feedback and offer to share your adapter designs. I'll bear that in mind if I end up with an 850. I guess I'll be buying on condition. From what you say the later gearboxes are more suitable/easier for the manufacture of an adapter? The Rfit price relies on getting the maximum grant from the government which means having the minimum income.
I'm interested to hear that you have gone clutchless. Is the syncro and gearchange good on the standard ICE versions? I had a Mk 1 Toyota Starlet and you could shift up and down with no clutch easily. That would have made a good clutchless conversion.

I have not been changing gear on the move because I have not yet enabled the switch that cuts all regen so that the motor is free to spin and not cause any resistance. Probably not done this because there really is no need to change gear. 3rd gear seems ideal and the car will pull away easily and accelerate (much more rapidly than the 850cc) up to the pre set current limit. I have this set at 150A at the moment but the motor/controller can draw up to 650A!
The Motor I am using is an HPEVS AC34 96v. Much more powerful than required but I was advised to go oversize to prevent heat build up. I think this motor may be overkill - I had originally considered using the AC20 which is small enough to allow the clutch to be retained. The popular Netgain Hyper9 does not fit without modifying the chassis.
If I were starting again, with the experience of completing one build behind me, I would look at production car motors I could re use - the community that develops ways of controlling these is very enthusiastic and new solutions are emerging all the time.
Batteries are another matter and you would do well to consider these before almost anything else. Cost, voltage, dimensions and module configurations can make a huge difference to what else you choose to do.
One thing that has occurred to me since saying the gearbox with bellhousing may be better, is how much taller this may be than without. I have my batteries directly above this area so a tall bellhousing may conflict. I think it is still possible to use an adapter similar to mine by removing the bellhousing.

 

[Seabadger]

Many thanks for your detailed account and advice. It's really very helpful to hear from someone with direct experience.

 

[Seabadger]

The open-source controller movement is interesting. As you say it's a fast moving field. This is one of the problems with Rfit. The regs here are so tight they are stuck with the solution they presented for homogilisation with precious little room for up-dating without going through the whole rigmorole again.