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R1123 801 engine issues

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Hi I'm attempting to fix my 65 1123 801 engine. I bought it with siezed motor.
I've been feeding the bores diesel for several months, had it turn under duress with crank handle twice, took the head off, third piston/ sleeve liner rusty. I think it's just purely from inactivity and not blown as no water in oil, but first exhaust on manifold was chockers with carbon...
I am wondering if I can just whip the sump off with motor in and disconnect the piston, push the sleeve and piston out and replace with a new one? Also are MOT.12 liner clamps available/ and I will need to put new boots on driveshafts, is there a coupling retainer tool available or just make one up, measurements?

I am not doing a full resto, apart from brakes and suspension that needs renewing because it is fairly straight and original.

Cheers Steven

Have to do work now since later in year weather too hot to work on (seriously!) ha ha. groan.
 
You might struggle for access to clean up the liner seating face if you only remove one cylinder, but apart from that I can't think of any reason why it couldn't be done.

Worth clamping the liners down in case the engine turns a little. A flat plate bolted in place of the head on top of the remaining liners ought to do the job.

I am not aware of any special tools being available. Not sure what to do about driveshaft clamps. If you are careful the driveshafts can be removed without them.
 
Fair enough, I am thinking just take the motor out now as then I can have a good look at everything, I need to some more research. I noticed a post with "engine siezed" here and a chap in France loading up Coca Cola into the bores. Crazy. An old guy here told me he soaked motors in milk but that sounded straight out gonzo. Wouldn't smell much! tbc.

Thanks Steven
 
A lot of older mechanics here claim that Coca Cola is the best de-seizing fluid available...they used to soak with it cylinder head studs on Alfa Romeo Twin cam engines when the cylinder head could not be removed (steel stud seizing to aluminum head).
 
i think it depends on how seized it is, my R4 F6 which i acquired some time ago had a seized engine i put in a mixture of redex and petrol then after about a week did it again then gradually tried to turn the engine via the crank small bit at a time and eventually it would turn over, so then put everything back together and put in new petrol after some enticing she finally fired up and is running fine now, not bad after about seven years of standing now i will have put in new oil, filters and water but now it's made me want to get on with the rest of it now ( it never ends ) but it will have to wait until i've finished my other R4 Gtl and got that through it's MOT.
 
Go Aussie Boy!!

Mate, My favourite for restraining driveshafts is long nylon cable ties run in a figure 8 around the joint from both sides, fencing wire works also. Also,IMHO, redo the whole motor, you cant imagine the heartache if another liner seal fails from all of the messing around.

Send me a PM I have 2 pre 68 1123s and know other boofheads, we could start a sewing circle
 
I'm stuck on the separation of drive shafts, manual says to disconnect upper suspension ball joint to free the shaft out but what to use? I guess the whole upper arm will swing up under force when ball joint loosened? Ignorance is not bliss... would anyone be able to suggest method?
Kind Regards

steven
 
You'll need a ball joint splitter to pull the ball joint out of it's taper after the nut has been removed. The first one on http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/Shop_Ball_Joint_Tools_94.html is the type to have.

I tend to undo the nut on the end of the driveshaft (easier with the wheel on the ground), remove the upper balljoint and steering balljoint with the lower suspension arm raised a little on a jack. Take care not to pull the inner joint apart on the driveshaft - bit of wire to tie it together is good. Have you got a manual for the car? They are useful.
 
Hey Malcolm I found out that a splitter and a hammer did the job quite nicely on the top ball joints and apart from trashing the already trashed boots no damage, engine out and ready for overhaul.

Cleaning today.

Cheers Steven
 
Nearly have engine stripped, according to the manuals, there are timing markings (holes) on the timing gear outside faces, but this one has nought.
Should I just mark current positions and remove?

Plus what warrants chain replacement? It's a double chain photos-

Steven
 
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Head query

I've almost got my motor back together! Had a blip with pistons as the ones I ordered through Franzose had different gudgeon pin size, mine were 14mm and the supplied were 16mm. Fortunately JP Pistons here in Adelaide had the right spec and very nice too. Price was alot more though!
Anyway the head has a plug hole at timing gear end and wondering what's around to plug it! I read there was a rubber plug in manual.
Looking forward to going over to July Thenay meet, wanted to know if anyone might be driving from UK or Paris as I'd love to hitch a ride!
I am finishing off this motor at present and will hopefully have it running by end of Feb.

Look forward to hearing from anyone with suggestions and possible driving, you never know I might be able to help get your R4 going if it breaks down!
Regards Steven : )
 
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Nice colour!

There used to be a rubber plug there but as these are no longer available now, you can make a close-fitting plastic plug and use some RTV sealant as an extra precaution.
The other solution (but I guess it's too late now...) is to drill and tap the hole to M12x125 thread and use a threaded plug and copper washer, just as the factory did on 4CVs and Dauphines.
 
Rockin good doopsy will flex the paypal asap!
While I'm typing my upper ball joints boots are shagged, they are 65 1123 spec any idea if these are available? No one in Darwin has any!! Laugh I almost cryed...
Thanks Steven :)
 
Could I suggest that you put this in 'Parts Wanted'? It will get more airing!!

I have checked parts lists and it tells me that the earlier top ball joints have a different part number to the later ones. I don't know what the difference is but if the later ones will do the job then they are readily available over here and in Europe.

They also change with chassis numbers
 
I may be able to supply these, as I am buying a large stock of R4 parts over here, and soem early ball joints are supposed to be included.
I will know from this weekend onwards, if you can wait a little...
 
Angel - there are two part numbers from 1965 to 1968

7701 455299 and 0981 728300. The first one shows a plain joint and the other shows a kit with the joint, ring, and fixings. Maybe the actual joints are the same, but one come bare and the other includes everything one needs.
 
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