Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

Rear Torsion bar removal.. again sorry

Q plate

Enthusiast
Messages
58
Location
Birmingham/ Cwmbran
Seasons greetings all I've read extensively about removing the rear bars made a start this afternoon no progress so far gonna have a tidy up and leave them to soak again but just wondered is there an actual stop on these ie I've been striking it from both ends trying to get it to move when it dawned on me that could be a waste of time.. for info Im intending to refurb the back axle/replace silent blocks etc.. thanks in advance

20231226_160526.jpg
 
Hello to you too!

You will have to be stubborn.....more than torsion bars....as rust inside the splines have done job.

Use hammer and hit it hard. no other way.

Was at your shoes some time back. It was big struggle but at the end i won.
 
Many Thanks have just watched a YouTube vid where the guy is also using lots of heat so will try that tommorrow
 
If you have access to press then that's a really good way to remove them-that is how I ended up removing mine.
Good luck I am sure you will get there in the end
 
I would think plenty of heat should do the job, I use this method all the time on various stubborn jobs like this and it always works. I had problems removing one of my front hub nuts yesterday, even using a very long bar...so I heated it up a bit and it came undone with ease. :)
 
I did not want to heat as i was afraid not to disturb torsion bar material.

Good job!
Put some grease on splines when putting torsion bars back in. That way it will be easy to remove bars next time
 
I did not want to heat as i was afraid not to disturb torsion bar material.

Good job!
Put some grease on splines when putting torsion bars back in. That way it will be easy to remove bars next time
I find that 'Copper ease' grease is good stuff for shafts etc.
 
Back again sorry been looking at the La4Ldesylvie guide on silent block fitment it's telling me to press the block thru until the ring is flush on the other side this is leaving a gap of a good few mm's I'd have assumed it should be pressed home? If anything I could cut the excess off flush afterwards?

20231227_154910.jpg 20231227_154907.jpg
 
It must leave this gap of 3-4mm, otherwise the arm will rub on the inner mounting during suspension movement.
 
Excellent thankyou.. I gambled not to press them fully home & kept the gap. Struggled after to get them started when pressing them into the trailing arms so they're in the Freezer overnight hopefully shrinking slightly
 
Excellent thankyou.. I gambled not to press them fully home & kept the gap. Struggled after to get them started when pressing them into the trailing arms so they're in the Freezer overnight hopefully shrinking slightly
Good idea putting them in the freezer first, and also warm up the housing with a heat gun (hair-dryer) as well. I guess you are pulling the bushes in with a big nut and bolt with thick washers like I do ?
 
Genius never thought of that been using a small press but struggling due to the shape of the arm to get everything square thankyou. Have another question (sorry ) so now that I've removed the torsion bars the initial marks I made on the other trailing arm to show the position of the bearing/carrier have moved a small but noticeable amount so Ive made a new mark with the 'pressure off' .. am I best to align with the new mark you think or the original Thanks all

20231228_095229.jpg 20231228_100352.jpg
 
Genius never thought of that been using a small press but struggling due to the shape of the arm to get everything square thankyou. Have another question (sorry ) so now that I've removed the torsion bars the initial marks I made on the other trailing arm to show the position of the bearing/carrier have moved a small but noticeable amount so Ive made a new mark with the 'pressure off' .. am I best to align with the new mark you think or the original Thanks all

View attachment 32595 View attachment 32596
Looks like you are winning ! I always use long threaded studding or bolts with thick washers to remove/fit bushes (and bearings) without any damage.
 
Back
Top