Rear Wheel bearing failure (pictures)

[Eoynteenie]

Ok, there has been a noise that sounds like something rubbing comin from somewhere in the car, parents say exhaust but been thou that and it all seems solid and rigde and no damage near it, so decided to check the rear brakes out for a quick look, as it comes from that area
When i got the dust cap off and the split pin out, removed the castle nut only to find the nut wasn't even handtight, so thought this was where the noise was coming from, but decided to give the brakes a quick look and clean up. Bearings looked and felt out, but put some extra lithium grease on them and put it back together. Now been following the 'haynes book of lies' so not really sure what went wrong but when putting it back together guess I over tighten the bolt adn squashed the bearing because at 10:30pm wednesday coming back home from the pub (no drinkin) there was a loud 'poof' and the whole car shook while doing between 60 to 70mph. Pulled to the side checked everything, under the bonnet, the wheels, couldn't find the problem, so decided to carry on where it felt like the handbrake was on so stopped again and phoned for help, aka the AA who when they turned up the car was ready to make a cup of tea because i left it running to keep the lights on as the battary ain't it best it once was so he felt the head gasket had gone and called a lowloader (designed for large heavy duty vans) to take me home.
Got to inspect the damage, other then heating it coolant the engine seems ok and runs without any problems but when taking the brakes apart again there was some damage, and the bearing fell out in a few bits ops:

and the drive dog as that what it reminds me off jammed itself into the thread damaging it

So, where can i get replacement bearings or anyone know the part numbers so i could go into the local bearing shop and get some for the back,
should i replace all four on the back?
is the hub still ok to use after the damage?
Can i replace the split pins with R pins?
And anyone got any idea on what that noise is? as it comes and goes and just sounds like something rubbing and chooses when it turns up no matter of speed.

 

[Steve Hennessey]

When you removed the bearing to grease it did you tighten the 'castle' nut up tight? If so, that's what has caused the damage as it's not supposed to be tight. You may be able to carefully clean up the hub with a file but the damage doesn't look good to me. I am not sure if the hub can be replaced either as it looks as if it's part of the radius arm.

If the inner bearing is okay then try to get an outer one from a bearing supplier. You will need the numbers off the bearing so they can match it up. Always use a new split pin.

 

[Eoynteenie]

when you say 'castle nut' do you mean the cover over the top of the main nut? because i just threw that on and put the split pin in,
why split pin over r pin?
and a thread file should help clean it up

and when i've done wheel bearings on my motorbikes, both have to done.

 

[Steve Hennessey]

As I cannot see your car it will either have a nut and cover or a castle nut (also called a castellated nut). From what you say, you have the former.

A split pin is the correct item to use to secure the castellated cover in place.

To repeat - if the inner bearing is okay then it's acceptable to just fit the outer bearing. Note that these are tapered bearings and they do not have to be tightened as in the case of thrust bearings.

 

[alewis]

Dont trust me on the check with someone else first but!

When ive done it up ive done it loseish, do it up hand tight with a spanner then backed it off so it was a bit loose. Then once around the block if its warm back
it off a bit more otherwise try a longer journey see if it gets warm.

Before journey - Should be a little play
After journey - Should be no play and not hot.

About the rubbing noise - no idea but I found my fuel breather pipe rubs when there is a load on board so have tied that to the fuel pipe to prevent problems.

(I had the same rubbing noise and it went away when i fixed the fuel pipe rubbing and routed the hand brake cable the correct way (mine had fallen down)).

 

[petak]

I can help you only for part No of the rear bearing kit from SKF
It is SKF VKBA 652.

IN kit you will get two bearings, split pin, grees.

This is for GTL 1128 model 1.1 engine 25kW

 

[Eoynteenie]

and i can use that part number at a supplier or do you know a website i can use to get the bearings? had a look on the web with no luck

 

[Steve Hennessey]

Remove the outer bearing inner race from the other side. Use a rag and clean the grease from the outer face. You will see a part number. Write that down or take it to your local bearing supplier who will certainly be able to match it up. While you are there buy a new split pin. That's all you need to do and you only need the outer bearing.

Here is a local company in Poole who will help you

http://www.ashleypower.co.uk/

 

[petak]

and i can use that part number at a supplier or do you know a website i can use to get the bearings? had a look on the web with no luck

This is SKF part NO for rear wheel bearing set.

Try to find out who has SKF bearings localy (near you) and this part number will do!

I have spoke with my local bearing shop and they told me that this bearing is the best thing for R4 (out of SKF program).
This bearings are closed so that water and dust can not get inside.

You can look in SKF on line automotive catalogue.
http://www2.vsm.skf.com/en-UK/OnlineCatalogue.aspx

And here are local UK dealers for SKF
http://www2.vsm.skf.com/en-UK/DealerLocator.aspx

You can talk to them and ask to give you only outher bearing (it should be 25x47x15- i do not know SKF part No for this one).

But I would change bouth of them

 

[Eoynteenie]

fixed up now, and now need to get him out and onto the road, but dad has put his newly restored saab in the way =/ and the battary has gone flat......happy dayz.....


thanks for the help