"Twisting" drive shaft gaiter

[Johnny]

I have a left hand drive R1128 GTL first registered in December 1981. I recently took the engine and gearbox out to have the flywheel refaced and to replace the clutch. I also replaced all the suspension and steering rack ball joints.

When refitting the offside drive shaft I must have forced the CV end a bit to much because when I looked at the installed shaft, the large end of the gaiter had popped off the hub. I cleaned the old grease out and repacked the gaiter with new CV grease. After many attempts, I managed to get the very tight clip over the large diameter end of the gaiter. It aligned well but there was grease over everything!

I started the car on stands put it in gear and let the hubs turn a few times. When I checked it out I saw that the gaiter had become very twisted such that the large end was ready to pop off again!

That surprised me since I reasoned that the hub and the shaft would each turn at the same rate.

Can anyone help me understand what is happening to make it twist or let me know if I have done something wrong or omitted a step in what I did?

Thanks,

Johnny

I took a snap or two!

 

[angel]

It seems to me that you didn't fit the spring clip correctly. Make sure, first, that the gaiter is correctly located at the two ridges on the outer diameter of the CV joint. Then fit the spring clip, the easiest way is to use a looped string to grab its end, then work it round over the gaiter. Be careful-usually at this stage the gaiter comes off the CV joint ridges without being easily noticed. That's why it's always better to fit the gaiter with the driveshaft removed and held in a vice so that the joint is not at an angle.
Once you have finished and are sure the gaiter has been fitted correctly all the way round, get a thin screwdriver and insert it through the gaiter's other end, gently squeezing the gaiter at the same time. This will release the air trapped inside the gaiter. I have seen some gaiters popping off due to air pressurising inside them when the joint gets hot in use.

 

[mr-reno-139]

I've not seen one of those original renault spring clips for a long time very effective but a pain to fit I used to use a pair of 100mm steel small bore tubing with theclip slipped into tube it is possible to hold tension off to enable positioning
Or give up and use modern plastic cable tie or metal clip crimped on
Very messy job lol

 

[Azazello]

I've not seen one of those original renault spring clips for a long time very effective but a pain to fit I used to use a pair of 100mm steel small bore tubing with theclip slipped into tube it is possible to hold tension off to enable positioning
Or give up and use modern plastic cable tie or metal clip crimped on
Very messy job lol

I usually go for plastic cable tie, too! Is good to receive confirmations of your work from an expert!

 

[mr-reno-139]

Thanks for vote of confidence I suppose expert is a derivative of experience
So I accept your compliment ☺
I enjoy this forum because I can remember facing similar challenges from years gone by
Would love to be exclusively working with 70 to 90s renaults
A good friend of mine is an Alpine collector and I do get plenty of practice with those

 

[Johnny]

Many thanks to all who offered help.

I took Angel's advice and removed the drive shaft from the car and used a vice to hold it to carefully replace the clip. It was far easier! I also bled any air from the gaiter.

When I tested it out, the thing still popped off at the hub end!!

As I was examining it for the umpteenth time, I noticed score marks on the outer circumference of the clip. It finally occurred that maybe it was the clip that was fouling the lower arm as the hub rotated and popping the gaiter off. To test the theory I removed the driveshaft again and took the clip off altogether and carefully replaced the gaiter in the grooves with no clip. Bingo, no popping off when tested.

As I had replaced all the balljoints just before with Delphi alternatives, I wondered if there was now a slight variation in the clearances between lower arms and the drive shafts since the other side had had no problem. Measurement showed that the problem side clearance was 3 mm and the other, 4 mm (estimated by Stanley knife blades).

I shall now use a cable tie temporarily until I find a slim steel or aluminium clip to crimp on as suggested or perhaps try a different ball joint.

May I, as a newcomer, endorse Mr Reno's comment above about this forum? The fact that so many more experienced Renault 4 enthusiasts are prepared to take the time and share their experience, advice and ideas freely with novices such as me, is very generous and much appreciated.

Johnny

 

[mr-reno-139]

You are very welcome to my advice at anytime almost every possible problem and combination of parts fitment has been covered on this forum since I've been on here the only time I get slightly annoyed is when I suggest solution and there is no response either to confirm or deny my input as typing stuff out and finding photos obviously eats into my time I am self employed Renault mechanic
but a great lover of renault 4s as you may have guessed
Going on from your problem I have had similar issues thinking about it seem to remember hammering on the lower wishbone to flatten the curved section by a millimetre may give you the clearance you need just to also mention that if the front shock absorbers are too long and the ride height set very high the clearance disappears at full travel meaning the car will be fine until you go over a big bump and the car itself goes up on the rebound and then takes the clip off