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Does this mean that they are still busy with it and so the new chassis still has a chance of becoming reality?

I already mentioned in another topic that on the Dutch forums there has already been word that the project is cancelled because the market was too small. Don't know if it's true though.

Exactly like mine! Lovely colour me thinks. I only have different interior (and mine is almost like new ;)).

On the Dutch forums there's already been word that it's not going to fly with the new chassis for R4's, have you guys missed out on those notifications or are those just rumours?

Well, since it says 2 posts above your post that it's sold, I guess it's not for sale anymore. And let me tell you that if you're looking for a Renault 4, you don't have to be looking at the mileage (and low mileage ones are almost non-existent anyway), their engines tend to run forever...

That's a nice tip! I'll try that, though I think a friend of mine who came by did that with WD40, although maybe not that extensively and I don't know either whether WD40 is quite flammable. I'll try!

I already did the usual and obvious things to try and fix the problem but it seems to be a little more complicated. @Imacthere4iam: I cleaned the carburattor out completely, took everything apart but it was actually very clean inside, no blocked jets either. Might check it one more time...

By the way, cheap hoses are available at Melun Retro passion!

There are seperate water seperators for sale, that will really improve your painting. I thought Malcolm even used a particles-seperator for dust.

I have a GTL and it has a footpump, I assume the electric thing was an option, rather than the standard and not the other way around dedicting the footpump being the low-spec standard.

My GTL doesn't have a long bolt that goes all the way into the chassis, instead it's got a little bracket which holds one of those slide-on screwthread clips. You can see it in this picture: You say you have a really old R4 so it might be different on those ones. But if not, than probably...

That might prove to be a major job! But it's still pretty straightforward: cut out any bad metal and weld in new pieces! :D Although those backbeams are really in bad shape, make sure you fixate them before starting to grind and weld...

Wow, not bad at all! And in such short time! I really admire that! Good work :).

I know what you mean Barnfind, I also keep a thread on the dutch forum on which I have asked some questions occasionally (it's easier with the specific technical terms at times, which I don't all know in English). But I've also had a mechanic beside the car who gave me some advice and I got some...

Hey! True, I'll give you guys an update. I haven't posted anything since then because in appearance the car hasn't really changed (since it was quite finished right), so I thought there'd be no point in posting. Nevertheless, I certainly haven't been sitting idle. The car is running...

I would also cut out those holes a little wider. It's likely that from the inside the metal surrounding those cut-out pieces is also corroded and in bad shape. Especially where the floorpan has been spot welded to the front chassis-stingers, it is likely to be in bad shape and maybe you'll find...

My experience is that those fillers are pretty thick and if you don't mind spending some money on it, it might be worthwile to apply a few coats of it, sanding each one of them down to flatten out the surface, before applying the next coat. At least, if there is a big surface affected by...

Haha, makes you wonder what people have going on in their minds :p.

Well, rubber seals can't be applied in places that become very hot right? So I guess that liner seals aren't made of rubber. But who knows... ;)

But how come the white '67 has got sheetmetal folded swingarms on the rear? Those were only installed on later built cars weren't they? Most of the time I'm a little suspicious about those "low milage" cars. Most of the bolts (and for instance the attachments for the brakehoses) are a...