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Are you certain the problem's with the carburettor? Is the ignition set-up correct? A mis-fire under load can sometimes be a sign of a failed or failing condenser. As you're smelling fuel it could be because the ignition's not fully burning the it and a failed condenser can cause a weak spark...

This form of automatic choke was not Renault's "finest hour" and, as has been said, was discontinued from the nearly 1960s. Workshop manuals have suggested conversion to a manual choke arrangement. The theory of the system was good, but its application didn't work too well, relying on a peculiar...

Electrical gremlins, such as dirty plugs, damp H.T. leads, points not opening properly, damp in the points, condenser failure etc. might be worth a look.....

I'll be your second opinion, and I agree with your local garage. It's always difficult to be 100% certain without seeing the car in the flesh, so to speak, but given the symptoms you describe and, particularly reference to the muck and debris in the coolant bottle, I would concur with them...

Could the white smoke be oil that's seeped past the gasket between the engine block and the pump? Maybe the gasket's leaking or is damaged in some way? Was there a block between the pump and the engine body that Wes of a different thickness to the original? if oil's seepng into the fuel somehow...

I shall investigate this.

I won't comment on the disappearing coolant, which, as has been said, is weird. That aside, did you replace the condenser (capacitor) when you were working on the car? I ask, as the symptoms you describe are classic condenser failure ones. The dying condenser can handle the engine working at low...

The carburettor has two screw adjustments; one changes the idle (tick-over) speed and the other alters the mixture (richness.) To tune the engine the mixture needs to be correctly set, and this method assumes the ignition (points gap, plugs gap, condenser function, HT lead & rotor arm condition...

"New R4 EV-not as horrible as I was expecting"; the title rather poses the question just HOW horrIble were you expecting it to be; pretty ghastly I expect! As has been said, the "retro" revolution in car manufacturing-the Fiat 500 & the MINI to name but two shows just how good the earlier...

......Careful now!

Nigh on impossible and somewhat dangerous..... If you don't have a copy of the Haynes manual for the Renault 4, obtain one and read the section on torsion bar replacement. It'll help you appreciate what's involved!

The primary resistance is between the two little terminals on the coil. It doesn't matter which way round you connect the meter but it DOES matter that all the connections to the car's electrics are removed from the coil before you measure the resistance. If your meter has crocodile clips at the...

This is THE best explanation in layman's terms of a car's ignition system I've ever read!

As I said, when the engine's off but the ignition ON 12 volts should be coming "down the line" from the battery. With the points closed that 12 volts passes through the coil, into the points and then to earth. In this position the coil is being energised. As the points open, the pathway to earth...

The coil might be dying, but that's not definitive. As it warms up it breaks down and produces less spark, hence the car not re-starting. The 0.9 volt reading should really be 0.0, so it might be worth either removing the points and trueing up the surfaces, or, if the points appear pitted...

The higher pitched noise sounds like a tappety one to me, so I should check the head gasket bolt tightness settings and then the tappet settings. The lower pitched one had a "bom bom (pause) bom bom" sound, which suggests something's loose somewhere. Have another go with the stethoscope & see if...

Depending on how far you want to go, it might be an idea to have the carburettor refurbished. Carburettor Exchange in Leighton Buzzard do a very good postal service and if you were to go down this road you'd eliminate any carburettor problems at once. Another factor might be a small irregularity...

Some very early 747cc Renault 4s suffered from an engine "rumble", which was eventually diagnosed by Renault's engineers as "camshaft whip". I think the later 848cc engines had re-designed camshafts, that ran in a different type of bearing. I'm not saying this is what your engine is suffering...

The first thing to do is to gain access to the top of the sender unit. 1/Remove the live feed to the float unit and connect it to a good earth. With the ignition on the petrol gauge should now read "full" and remain so. Leave this connection in place and drive around for a day or so and see if...

Let's go back to first principles to sort this. Using a decent multi-meter carry out the following tests: 1/ With the ignition switched ON, confirm that there's 12 volts at the "+" terminal of the coil. If there isn't, find out why! 2/ Whip the plugs out (it makes turning the engine easier!)...