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The two warning lights (temperature and oil pressure) are wired so that, in the event of the oil pressure dropping BOTH lights come on. This is why when the ignition's switched on, again BOTH lights illuminate. You can check they're working properly by disconnecting the feed to the oil pressure...

Bloody hell, that belt HAS seen better days....! Change that straight away & see if it improves things before doing anything drastic!

I fitted an oil pressure gauge to an air-cooled Daf a few years ago, using a t-piece to connect a pipe to the oil cooler, allowing me to mount the pressure sensor on the inside of the wing. It worked perfectly, so I reckon using a t-piece where the oil pressure warning light sensor screws into...

Weird.... I grew up in north Devon & did my mechanic's apprenticeship there! I moved to north London & there's a company here who refurbish alternators and offer a mail-order business: https://www.unitexchange.com/ I can personally confirm their work as being excellent!

Are you certain the firing order's correct? It should be 1,3,4,2, but if the removal of two leads makes difference it may be that they are incorrectly fitted.

Yes, there's a dead short somewhere! I'll explain what should happen: When the ignition's turned on the current runs from the battery, through the key and to the +ve side of the coil. The current then runs from the "CB" (contact breaker) side of the coil to the distributor; when the points are...

Yes, it sounds like a duff set of leads-it does happen! using a multi-meter set on the maximum resistance setting (usually 2M Ohms) you should have very little resistance at all from the lug inside the distributor cap and the spark plug terminal. Whatever the resistance values they should be...

To ensure the coil's producing a spark try this: Using a long H.T. lead connect one end to the coil's central (H.T.) terminal and push a spark plug into the other end. Rest the plug on the battery's -ve terminal and ask an assistant to switch on the starter. You should see regular blue sparking...

If the bulb's good and the alternator's working properly then the fault lies in the wiring. There's a lead connecting the alternator to the ignition warning light. Work out which one it is & disconnect it from the back of the alternator, turn on the ignition and touch the wire to earth; the...

ABSOLUTELY! That's a fail, even if your garage's sympathetic to classic cars. Your cornering would feel different left to right and the car may slew under violent braking. The brake imbalance may have been caused by the odd tyres, as more tread would be on the ground on one side than the other...

Power Units Ltd., of Hatfield, Hertfordshire. PM me if you need contact details.

Clunking's a classic indication of drive shaft wear. Another test is to corner on full lock and accelerate, noting if the noise is louder when turning to the right or the left. The clunking will be louder on the inside wheel but, as has been said, if one's worn to the point that one can hear it...

Yes, they are, but by using a 6 volt ballasted coil the plugs are given a "double blast" by having 12 volts put directly through the coil only when the starter is operated. This helps starting and doesn't do the coil any harm for a short burst. When the car's running normally the ballast reduces...

Some coils are ballasted, meaning that they are 6 volt ones, but operating on 12volt electrical system. They therefore have to be ballasted to half the voltage going through them. The car's wiring is usually set to pass 12 volts through the coil when the starter is operated, so that the plugs...

It looks as if you have two shades of red there, although that may be an effect of the camera. Stand back from the car a little and if the blemishes concern you, then maybe think about treating them. I can't see any rust at all in the pictures, which is really good news and do bear in mind the...

First the easy one: My headlamps failed for the same reasons and I removed them both, sending them to a company in Birmingham called "The Genius Of The Lamp" in Birmingham, who refurbished them perfectly. Later re-fitment made my night driving much better! Now the hard one: The C.V. boot...

As Andy says, red paintwork always fades more quickly. I worked for a V.W. dealership many (many!) years ago and the red Polo estates (they were nicknamed bread vans!) were often being resprayed after less than a year, under the V.W. guarantee! As for being ripped off, let me assure you that...

I lowered the tank from under the car, but, having read your most recent post it seems someone's cut through the floor of the boot to access the sender unit, so you won't have to! Yes, this is where the problem was with the car I fixed. I bought a new sender unit from V.D.O.

I've had a similar problem with a Renault; the problem was the seal on the top of the tank, where the sender unit was fitted. This had perished, allowing the fuel to soak through onto the top of the tank, particularly when full. Changing the gasket and carefully tightening everything solved the...

Altrbnatively, https://www.carburetterexchange.co.uk are worth a try. They're in Brighton Buzzard. I've used them on a number of occasions and can confirm the quality of their workmanship.