Search results

I've consulted the "Good Book". Under the previous regulations, lights that dip have to be a minimum of 600mm from the road surface and any lights fitted below this height may only be used in conditions of fog or falling snow. Dipped and main beam lights must be "matched pairs" and can be either...

The term "driving lights" has no meaning in law and was dreamed up by marketing men! As I understand it (and I would need to check the "good book" for the definitive answer) lights positioned so that the centre of the lens is lower than 1200mm from the road surface may only be used "in...

Sorry, I didn't realise your car's a1978 one.The filter is very slim, and, as Malcom says, somewhat awkward to remove. A filter strap would assist! Where in the South West are you?

Some early Renault 4s were NOT fitted with an oil filter, which meant a "fairly frequent" oil change. If memory serves, early 4s had an oil change every 1,000 miles (about once a month if the car was used normally). Remember oils weren't as good as they now are, but do bear in mind that (in my...

I think those are FOG lights, as the vertical slats suggest they are. In addition, they're yellow and are mounted lower than spotlights should be. Remember to check the "Construction and Use" rules when installing extra lights (available on line) since lights below a certain height may only be...

No, it's a Portuguese plate! I know that very road and it's a really beautiful part of the country!

Without being able to hear it I'd suggest it might be a jet in the carburettor that's partially blocked, given that the sound stops when the accelerator is depressed. Is the air filter box securely attached to the top of the carburettor, as an air leak around the join might cause this as well.

I did, and they still are, indeed, the best!

Spotted in Bideford a day ago. The owner uses it as his daily driver-top guy!

When the engine has warmed up you need to ensure the choke is completely "off", meaning the control is fully pushed in, as even a slightly open choke will affect the tick-over speed. Pulling out the choke does two things: it enriches the mixture AND raises the tick-over speed, so you need to...

Where is the car? A proximity to north London might gain you a call-out.......

Yes, that's the one. Warm the engine up first, then give the screw a quarter turn CLOCKWISE, screwing it IN, which should increase the tick-over speed a little. It's a fine adjustment, so adjust it carefully.

Agreed. If you follow the accelerator linkage to the carburettor you'll find a screw adjuster. Turn it a quarter turn clockwise at a time and take the car for a run over the same route each time & see if it still stalls. Remember the engine has to warm up fully and the choke should be fully "in"...

In my former employment, which ended in 2022, just after Brexit, we ran an unofficial "book" on which country would be the next to leave the E.U. Sweden was thought to be the most likely (non-adoption of the Euro, a certain independence of thought on many matters etc.) although I suspect the joy...

Your car appears to be suffering from what we "old school" mechanics call "vapour lock". The Renault 4 was built when petrol had lead added and this is no longer the case. One of the effects of this is that unleaded petrol has more volatility than is did previously, which causes it to vaporise...

[Irony switch ON] My sympathy has just been reduced.... I thought you'd broken down in le Massif Central, miles from anywhere, alone, no food, no beer, wine or baguettes, struggling to connect to l'internet by using a mobile 'phone with rapidly depleting batteries, your family and friends...

Those points don't look very clean, suggesting excessive arcing, caused, inter alia by a failed or failing condenser. If that picture is with the points open the gap looks too small as well, although the picture mightn't be showing that properly.

For once (and it's not often...) I agree with every word of the Haynes book. You won't be able to test a condenser unless you've access to some sophisticated electronic equipment. Assuming you haven't, change the condenser. The condenser acts like a cushion; imagine a railway engine shunting...

CONDENSER! Substitute another one, check the condition and gap of the points and replace if necessary. A failing condenser causes rapid wear of the points and so it's worth repairing/replacing them at the same time.

That negative wire looks too thin and (although it's difficult to be sure, because of the angle of the picture) not properly routed. It looks too close to the fan, but, as I say, that might be an optical illusion.