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I found them not available as a normal part (maybe through Renault though?), so I bought a hex-head high-tensile bolt of M12 x 190mm 8.8 grade; I can't remember if I needed to cut a little off to fit in from the end (think I did) - don't forget suitable matching nyloc nut, as the thread was...

....... but your vehicle still needs to road-worthy (safe) whether or not the MOT has been extended :waving:

I had a knocking sound from the right side and found a small amount of play in the upper wishbone bolt - where it mounts to the chassis. New bolt helps.

Nice attention to detail and well done for keeping existing bulb-holder in use, not in the bin!

Seems like some MOT garages have reduced staff or shut down altogether so possibly won't be easy to MOT now anyway. Just did re-MOT on my camper at U-drive this morning and overheard that a nearby U-drive MOT branch was shutting today, and their own staff had halved since last week.

I'm actually rebuilding a 1973 Reliant Scimitar GTE now, but previously had the F6 pictured as my avatar until it was crunched by someone. I still love R4's and this forum, so here I am still! It's so wonderful that the weather here (southern UK) is at present very friendly to messing about...

Great solution ! Looks really easy to use.

In the piping modification drawing above, note that the one T-joint has a small constriction (effectively in the return from the carb), to keep fuel pressure up a bit so the carb actually receives fuel. This can be a restriction in the pipe rather than the T-joint, but it is necessary.

and hopefully not a slippery slope away from repairing stuff. . . .

With a nice high set of roof beams to use a chain block on :clapping:

I had an untunable (four-carb) Alfa Romeo 33 green cloverleaf once; driving along, wondered if the car ahead of me was leaking petrol but just to reassure myself pulled over a mile or two further along, opened the bonnet and found a stream of petrol pouring onto one of the exhaust manifolds...

.and compare any looseness or roughness in the joints between the shafts you have so as to pick what could be the better ones before fitting.

Vacuum advance or centrifugal advance could be jerking or going notchy due to corrosion or leaks etc. See if the vacuum advance rod moves freely when you suck hard at the pipe plugging into the carb base, and that the bob-weights are moving when you poke them in the dizzy base. Vacuum...

They seem to say AND a photo of the original chassis number, so sounds like you've the best idea.

I had some irritating rattles which I eventually narrowed down to front pads - the pad clamping springs were old and not holding them firmly down in the caliper. Worth a thought!

I can see it working at least short-term by tightening the fit (moving the metal around slightly to reduce the inner diameter a touch) , but wonder whether it will be a long-term solution, and whether a new bearing will make any difference to the fit. It makes some sense at the moment though :)

Look at that gear-stick - talk about back-seat driving ! :clapping: 1966 car - the last year of running a reg suffix from Jan to Dec.

Nice work!

Gemlins from washing the engine probably. Oil & temp switches are on/off - fading in and out suggests that there is an electrical issue somewhere else that is making the dash light come and go. Maybe!

Agreed JdeW, I reckon it's the massive new cars that are gobbling vast energy and resources in manufacture, whether hybrid or not (4.5 litre petrol hybrid to Save The World, anyone?). Encourage folks to buy small, light, and resource-light vehicles instead of heavyweight vanity trophies.