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Bolt the outer mounting and prop the stub axle so that the outer bushing is not under strain because of the arm weight. Idea is to have all six mounting holes of both brackets aligned with chassis holes. Makes refitting the arm so much easier!

Better to fit the mounting at the position it was with torsion bar off, provided that the old bush still feels "springy" - this is its initial position.

It must leave this gap of 3-4mm, otherwise the arm will rub on the inner mounting during suspension movement.

Try heating the gearbox end cover with a hot air gun, directing it to the aluminium around the plastic bush. I usually lever -very gently- between the gear and the cover and remove it as an assembly.

This info is missing from all manuals, official or not. Many years ago, when I first encountered this problem, I had thought a method of marking an inner mounting fixing hole position in relationship to (previously installed as per the manual) outer bush mounting. It worked but was too fussy in...

65€ for a Hankook 50Ah battery, 2 year warranty, too.

I agree with Malcolm, removal and refitting of this type of shoes is very easy if you take them out as an assembly with all parts attached, after you remove the spring retainers. Again, these are not easy to remove or fit if you don't have the right tool. Find an old screwdriver that fits...

If thread damage is not too bad you can get a M14x1.25 tap and clean the thread. Dip the tap in grease beforehand and all chips will stick on the tap like magic. If damage is severe, you have to fit a special solid thread insert, not Heli-Coil. But it's still doable with head on car. Here, there...

Nothing strange. A RHD TL is bought new in 1978 and registered. Then at some point of its life it gets knackered, rotten beyond repair or crashed. Owner finds a good GTL imported from France, without papers, transfers the body plate and cuts and welds the chassis number on the GTL, then...

This is a late chassis! Holes on the front floor toeboard and handbrake lever bracket confirm this, too. I think it matches the body - the whole car in fact.

Wait, I asked you for a photo because I suspect that chassis number only may had been transferred on a later chassis. Front torsion bar anchor points will tell us the truth. Also I see you have internal door hinges and small tailgate hinges, so whole bodyshell is post-83.

Oval plate is from a Cyprian market RHD 1978 TL. If you have, or you can take, a picture from the rear part of that crossmember - imagine what the toes of the rear passengers "see" - it will be clear whether the chassis came from the TL or they changed it with the bodyshell.

The diamond plate reads R1123 - this is from an 845cc car - and is fixed on the bulkhead boss for a rectangular plate. The holes for the LHD parts look to be there and plugged. It is what I suspected - a re-shelled chassis. Can you please post pictures of the oval plate, and also the rear part...

You can always ask for the "fiche d' usine" at Renault Classic. they send you a copy of the data sheet that keep for every car that leaves the factory, and has all the data you need, including its "birth date".

My point is that, a torque wrench is more of a measuring instrument than a ratchet. If you set it to 5,5 kgm and it clicks to an actual torque of, say, 7 kgm, it's obviously useless. Were the new bolts of a reputable brand, too?

Is your torque wrench a good one?

If the tailgate can be shut with little or no effort, it will certainly rattle and squeak on the road. You have to adjust its lock pin on the boot floor so that it needs a considerable push to lock, or locks by itself when the tailgate is being left to fall from horizontal position. A sloppy...

You are right, you will find spare female bullet connectors on both sides of engine compartment wiring loom.

Just noticed the two pdfs that JdeW posted and they have the settings for the 32 DIR 100, original equipment for your engine, and they are quite different from the Volvo engine I posted.