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Be aware that the 2CV frame is some 10cm taller because it is mounted on the floor rather than on a crossmember, as on the R4.

The 32 DIR 81 carburettor is for an Alfasud / Alfa 33. If you can actually find internal parts, here is the jetting for the 1397 engine as fitted on the Volvo 343 engine, which should be identical to Renault C2J: 1st stage: Main jet 120 Idle jet 47 Air corrector 180 Emulsion tube F20 Idle air...

Try wiggling all fuses with ignition switch on. Seems to me like a corroded fuse end - a classic with this type of fuse. I don't think it has something to do with the battery being put back on, there is nothing to blow on these cars!

5,5 kgm for the head bolts. No torque spec for either the manifold nuts - 2 kgm is the standard torque figure for M8 nuts, if you can fit a torque wrench there. ;) The same goes for water pump bolts, 0,8 - 1 kgm is a normal tightening torque for them.

You must use washers on these head bolts. No need to fit new ones, just make sure these came off the old head bolts and not from somewhere else. They are special high tensile steel. Cylinder head bolts can be reused as they are not tightened past their yield point on this engine. It's...

It's the distributor / oil pump drive gear, that meshes with a gear on the camshaft. I'm afraid that, if there are broken or worn teeth on this gear, the camshaft may be damaged, too. This is the gear that is held in the block by the threaded bush we were talking about.

Both tensioners have 15mm shafts so you can swap pulleys easily.

I guess you have the sheet metal type of pulley. Unfortunately the bearing isn't practically replaceable on this type, there are no circlips hoding it in the pulley, but rather the pulley is punched around the bearing. Try to find a secondhand earlier style pulley wih circlips, to be able to...

Do you mean 10W-30? It is too thin an oil, except if you live in a cold area. Plus, it's usually synthetic or semi-synthetic, which our engines generally don't like. Copper grease is a completely different thing from copper gasket sealant, obviously. Sealant is not necessary if your head has...

Thread size is M22x2.0 .

The bushing needs to be removed first. It's a press fit in the block so you will either need to drop the sump (oil pan) and tap it from below, or -easier maybe - to make a tool and pull it off. It has an internal thread for this purpose, can't remember its size but I think it has been mentioned...

Have a look inside the carburettor throat with choke flap open. With engine running at idle, you should not see fuel puddling on the throttle butterfly (the one that is located at the bottom of the carburettor), nor fuel dripping from the diffuser.

If the failure reason description is accurate, it seems more like a faulty shock absorber rubber bush rather than a broken chassis. Plus, it's classed as a minor fault, which would not be the case if the chassis was concerned.

Another typical leak point is the breather pipe, it is located at the back right corner of the tank. There is a short section of rubber hose there that often splits and allows fuel to leak when tank is full.

This makes me suspect the carburettor, these offered nowadays as "brand new" are poorly made copies. Check the float and float valve, it seems to me that the carburettor is overflowing or the fuel level is too high.

You cannot set rocker arm clearances with the head off on any OHV engine (camshaft in block). What's more, whenever you retighten the head bolts, rocker arm clearances need checking, too. Don't worry about moving the liners when cleaning them, it's really not that easy on an engine that is not...

Correct covers that will fit on your headlamp bowls are like the ones pictured on the Haynes manual. They are held on by a bucket handle style wire clip and are much deeper to allow for the different shape of the headlamp bowl - note the difference between the Franzose picture and your actual bowl.

Discoloration or pitting of the head gasket compression ring means leakage. Ring should be bright silver, and also its imprint on the cylinder head face should be even and have a width of 1,5-3mm. Compression leakage to water jackets and/or water leakage to combustion chambers usually happen...

Next time remember to dip the rubber part in boiling water for a couple of minutes. You will be amazed by how much softer does it get.

Reminds me of this Hellenic Post ad from the 70s - same theme, same car, but more gorgeous girl ;-)