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Just to say that a Helicoil insert generally seems to make a fixture stronger than original in aluminium as the aluminium doesn't suffer the friction of tightening any more and the actual aluminium part has a larger surface area than new. The aluminium just sits there whilst the helicoil does...

Could be it needs shimming some more under the saddle/slider that holds the rack up to the pinion from the steering column. Could be, but doesn't sound great if there really is that much wear - did you notice much slop in the steering wheel before this?

If the window knob is a stick-on one I can recommend Araldite Crystal clear epoxy resin. 'Glass glue' (super-glue) failed.

Other alternative is to cut the corner chunk of the rear door-frame(C-pillar)/floor/wheel-arch to access the chassis properly, then weld the lump back in properly after chassis repairs. Easier than a body-off but does require painting afterwards.

The 'rocker hitting cover' noise is possibly exactly that - mine did that after I over-tightened the rocker cover a little. I think it may have squashed over the years, too - I loosened the bolts a little and noise went away :laughing:

And are you sure that the rotor arm is pressed down correctly in it's locator in the shaft?

If the distributor has been removed or lifted up for any reason, the pinion at the bottom of the distributor shaft may have moved a tooth or two where is meshes with the camshaft. If so, lift the distributor complete, and rotate it a bit to get it close to the No 1 position that you want...

If the oil is coming from where the fuel pump connects to the block, the gasket isn't sealing. Try using some non-setting gasket sealant (Blue Hylomar etc) on both sides of the gasket and reinstall it - make sure the surfaces are very clean and smooth!

I'd reckon the starter motor would be correct! Are the HT leads plugged in to the correct spark-plugs? Is the flywheel timing mark the actual timing mark, or one for top-dead-centre?

Yes, they can be changed - try to get LED lamps that have the LEDs on the front, facing you. Do not replace the ignition (battery charging) light with LED as this is needed to start the alternator. Try: https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/dashboard-gauge-bulbs-1 It is possible that...

You are correct - it is seam sealer. Scrape/cut/chisel is all I use to remove the stuff. Angle-grinder with wire-brush fitted might help, but is messy! Best of luck.

The pump and tensioner should turn smoothly with no grittiness to feel - and no uneven-ness in feel. Tightening up the belt would have made the grip better (hence no squealing) and put lots more strain on the belt if either pump or tensioner were trying to stop it moving all the time!

Worth checking the water pump too - they can seize.

Sometimes the master cylinder can trap air if it's not filled & bled 'on the bench' - ie not on the car. I've needed to do this once - I made up some short brake pipes and crimped/soldered the ends shut then bled one master cylinder exit at a time, leaving the others blanked. piston was...

Rule of thumb for me is 6 years if it's used regularly; much less if it is allowed to go flat.

I tried the petrol by-pass circuit to return warm petrol to the tank to no effect in the carb really; then I just fitted a pulsing electric fuel pump which only worked when the ignition was on but the engine not running (driven via a small relay using the ignition warning light I think)...

Is it an indicator for when the glow plugs are on? Most plugs seem to stay on (or partly on) to help engine warm-up, in the background. I have assumed it's diesel !! :confused:

'Twill be a thing of beauty :)

Rubber can also perish with Ozone oxidation, which is harder to figure out. I bought a new tank hose and filler cap washer which perished and split within 6 mths, OUTSIDE the petrol area like Malcolm's mention above, due to ozone oxidation I conclude.

I see photos with a dog in them and wonder what the dog was thinking - the people are keeping it company :laughing: I think I am a dog-person!