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I'm actually rebuilding a 1973 Reliant Scimitar GTE now, but previously had the F6 pictured as my avatar until it was crunched by someone. I still love R4's and this forum, so here I am still! It's so wonderful that the weather here (southern UK) is at present very friendly to messing about...

Great solution ! Looks really easy to use.

In the piping modification drawing above, note that the one T-joint has a small constriction (effectively in the return from the carb), to keep fuel pressure up a bit so the carb actually receives fuel. This can be a restriction in the pipe rather than the T-joint, but it is necessary.

and hopefully not a slippery slope away from repairing stuff. . . .

With a nice high set of roof beams to use a chain block on :clapping:

I had an untunable (four-carb) Alfa Romeo 33 green cloverleaf once; driving along, wondered if the car ahead of me was leaking petrol but just to reassure myself pulled over a mile or two further along, opened the bonnet and found a stream of petrol pouring onto one of the exhaust manifolds...

.and compare any looseness or roughness in the joints between the shafts you have so as to pick what could be the better ones before fitting.

Vacuum advance or centrifugal advance could be jerking or going notchy due to corrosion or leaks etc. See if the vacuum advance rod moves freely when you suck hard at the pipe plugging into the carb base, and that the bob-weights are moving when you poke them in the dizzy base. Vacuum...

They seem to say AND a photo of the original chassis number, so sounds like you've the best idea.

I had some irritating rattles which I eventually narrowed down to front pads - the pad clamping springs were old and not holding them firmly down in the caliper. Worth a thought!

I can see it working at least short-term by tightening the fit (moving the metal around slightly to reduce the inner diameter a touch) , but wonder whether it will be a long-term solution, and whether a new bearing will make any difference to the fit. It makes some sense at the moment though :)

Look at that gear-stick - talk about back-seat driving ! :clapping: 1966 car - the last year of running a reg suffix from Jan to Dec.

Nice work!

Gemlins from washing the engine probably. Oil & temp switches are on/off - fading in and out suggests that there is an electrical issue somewhere else that is making the dash light come and go. Maybe!

Agreed JdeW, I reckon it's the massive new cars that are gobbling vast energy and resources in manufacture, whether hybrid or not (4.5 litre petrol hybrid to Save The World, anyone?). Encourage folks to buy small, light, and resource-light vehicles instead of heavyweight vanity trophies.

Nice looking fuel pump!

I found the window catch issue solved finally by using some Crystal Epoxy glue - such as in the photo. Was still attached after more than a year. Not as invisible as the superglue, but it does work - unlike the others.

Well found Paul - thanks for alerting us. The old bus may live on in parts :)

Have found that the Ethanol now added to fuel does create gel which clogs stuff up. I second ecurb.renots above.

Chassis rails either side of the engine are good for the front.