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I already did the usual and obvious things to try and fix the problem but it seems to be a little more complicated. @Imacthere4iam: I cleaned the carburattor out completely, took everything apart but it was actually very clean inside, no blocked jets either. Might check it one more time...

By the way, cheap hoses are available at Melun Retro passion!

There are seperate water seperators for sale, that will really improve your painting. I thought Malcolm even used a particles-seperator for dust.

I have a GTL and it has a footpump, I assume the electric thing was an option, rather than the standard and not the other way around dedicting the footpump being the low-spec standard.

My GTL doesn't have a long bolt that goes all the way into the chassis, instead it's got a little bracket which holds one of those slide-on screwthread clips. You can see it in this picture: You say you have a really old R4 so it might be different on those ones. But if not, than probably...

That might prove to be a major job! But it's still pretty straightforward: cut out any bad metal and weld in new pieces! :D Although those backbeams are really in bad shape, make sure you fixate them before starting to grind and weld...

Wow, not bad at all! And in such short time! I really admire that! Good work :).

I know what you mean Barnfind, I also keep a thread on the dutch forum on which I have asked some questions occasionally (it's easier with the specific technical terms at times, which I don't all know in English). But I've also had a mechanic beside the car who gave me some advice and I got some...

Hey! True, I'll give you guys an update. I haven't posted anything since then because in appearance the car hasn't really changed (since it was quite finished right), so I thought there'd be no point in posting. Nevertheless, I certainly haven't been sitting idle. The car is running...

I would also cut out those holes a little wider. It's likely that from the inside the metal surrounding those cut-out pieces is also corroded and in bad shape. Especially where the floorpan has been spot welded to the front chassis-stingers, it is likely to be in bad shape and maybe you'll find...

My experience is that those fillers are pretty thick and if you don't mind spending some money on it, it might be worthwile to apply a few coats of it, sanding each one of them down to flatten out the surface, before applying the next coat. At least, if there is a big surface affected by...

Haha, makes you wonder what people have going on in their minds :p.

Well, rubber seals can't be applied in places that become very hot right? So I guess that liner seals aren't made of rubber. But who knows... ;)

But how come the white '67 has got sheetmetal folded swingarms on the rear? Those were only installed on later built cars weren't they? Most of the time I'm a little suspicious about those "low milage" cars. Most of the bolts (and for instance the attachments for the brakehoses) are a...

I guess you'd have to fix that thing up first or that Gordini will wrinkle up your car :p.

R4 HAS a Cleon engine right? :p And Alexandre, the volvo 343 has the 1.4 Litre Renault engine. You could try to get one of those out of a Volvo 343. I've also seen them being sold on Marktplaats.nl, the Dutch variant of Le bon coin, Ebay etc...

Now that's when I say an R4 is beyond repair... and I've never seen one that I thought couldn't be repaired (except for some accident-victims ofcourse). Did you get a lot of usable parts off it?

Actually, like Einstein once said: ""floccinaucinihilipilificate" - Albert Einstein -

Looks pretty mint to me ...

I could use that rear-bumper! Looks like it's in pretty mint condition! ;)