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There are TWO points to appreciate here: 1/ The points gap. This is the gap between the 2 halves of the points, measured by feeler gauges, at the point when the points are at their maximum opening. If you have a dwell meter, this gap can be more accurately set by using this measure, which is 56...

You mention changing the distributor; did you also change the condenser (sometimes called the capacitor)? The symptoms you describe are typical of a condenser failing as it warms up. As well as changing the distributor, were the points checked for condition and gap setting? The gap setting is...

Just to make it clearer, a big thick lead should go from the positive ("+") terminal of the battery to the solenoid and needs to be securely clamped at both ends. There's a thinner wire also connected to the solenoid and it is this wire that energises the solenoid. Check that this wire is...

Interesting that you say that the headlights "stay bright all the time-no dimming when you try to start". This may well mean the battery's in good health but it also suggests that current is NOT reaching the starter motor, as the headlights should dim when the starter is operated. I think the...

Without seeing the car in the flesh it sounds like the starter motor's not receiving enough current. If the battery's in good health and fully charged I'd check the following and in this order: 1/ Battery connections; are they shiny and tight? 2/ Car frame to engine block strap; somewhere...

The M.O.T. exemption applies to vehicles over 40 years old, so your 4 would qualify after its next M.O.T. However.... I am one of many who doesn't agree with the exemption, since I am of the opinion that ALL vehicles used on the public highway, should be subject to an M.O.T. inspection...

Is the car safely back on a driveway now? If so, perhaps you'd be able to fix it yourself, with a little help from this forum.....

I know a place that'd fix it, if you're interested.

The condenser in the picture doesn't look in the best of health. In particular, the connection at the top looks worn. I'd replace it anyway. It should have a value of 2.7 micro-farads somewhere on it.

Yes, it would. Although I understood the condenser to be new. Mind you, "new" doesn't always mean "good"! There's a way of testing condensers, using a multi-meter, should you need to know it.

If memory serves (and it was a long time ago when last I opened the bonnet of a Renault 5....) the H.T. leads are 4 different lengths, so it is onto which plug they go (longest furthest from the distributor, shortest nearest & the other two as per) However, their positions on the distributor cap...

When you wrote that you'd "rebuilt the distributor" I was wondering if you were certain you had replaced it in the block correctly. It is possible, in some circumstances, to replace it one half of a cycle "out". It's unlikely, but it might be worth checking it. What made me think of this was...

A few thoughts: 1/ Is it possible you've set the ignition 180 degrees out? Many French cars (and others!) have cylinders numbered in a different way to those in England (or Wales...) 2/ New parts aren't always as good as old ones. If you've not thrown the old ones away, try refitting them...

Is that assumption correct....? I'd investigate the electrical side of things first! Is there a spark at the plug? Remove a plug, reconnect the H.T. lead to it & place it on the top of the engine, where it can earth out through the block. Now operate the starter & you should see a series of blue...

I've never heard of a dwell angle as low as 18 degrees, although I'm willing to be corrected if anyone knows better... Generally they're of the order of 40-60 degrees in a four cylinder engine. Might I tentatively suggest that 10 degrees is the static timing point and that the vacuum advance is...

It's normal that the coil would become hot in these circumstances, as the engine may have been stopped in a position where the points were closed, thus passing current through the coil. It's impossible to say if the coil has been damaged; running the car would assist in determining this. Go out...

....And there aren't many of either left....!

Unless you've already done this, I'd suggest the use of t'internet, and ask "wheel balancing near me", ring the companies and ask them. If they don't offer it, ask for suggestions of those who might.

I can....... but it's in east London, so not a lot of help as you're in Cheltenham! I know a technique that I've used on my Daf 33, which also solid centre 3 stud wheels though; try this: 1/ As the Renault 4 is front wheel drive, this might involve quite a bit of jacking up and lowering...

Old engine oil might be a starting point. If you have any left over from previous work it would be cheaper than diesel.