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Having had a long think about this I can only suggest bypassing the ignition switch and dashboard wiring by running a wire from the "+" 12 volt terminal on the battery, straight to an in-line fuse and then to the "+" terminal on the coil, using a clip to hold it in place. This would remove any...

A typical value should be between 0.4 and 2 ohms. A lower reading would suggest there's a short circuit in the coil and a higher reading suggests a partial break somewhere in the wiring. I'll await your answer to the resistance reading.

O.K., we're making progress.... Next questions: 1/ What is the resistance across the coil? To find this, select the maximum resistance setting on your multi-meter (usually 2M ohms) and connect the leads to the two small terminals (the "+" and "-" terminals of the coil) What is the reading and...

I'm not sure this IS the cause, for the reasons outlined by others. As I recall the Renault 4's ignition system's isn't fused, so any short-circuit would cause smoke and possibly a fire, as has been suggested. I would carry out the following checks, in this order: 1/ Examine the coil; there are...

The terminal on the side of the distributor body should be insulated from the body itself. The terminal is there to allow the points to connect to the wire without touching the distributor body (it also allows the capacitor to be connected in parallel) My next "port of call" would be that small...

Does the short happen when BOTH the wire from the coil AND to the capacitor are connected to the terminal on the side of the distributor body? Try only connecting the wire from the coil and doing the same tests; if the problem disappears then you've solved it-your capacitor is the problem and...

Agreed! The spring-loaded points sit on the post that sticks up from the base of the distributor body, but without a washer; the insulation is provided by the plastic sleeve that slides over the post. As the plastic sleeve is slightly longer than the metal part of the points this insulates the...

This screw acts as the earth return for the capacitor, so must NOT be insulated. The metal clamp around the casing of the condenser is tightly held in place this screw, which earths the body of the capacitor. The points and spring should sit on plastic; they ARE insulated from the distributor...

As the screw's the correct one to use I'd be tempted to add a small washer to the outside, to shorten its length inside the distributor body. In this way everything else would be at tight as before, but the screw would no longer be able to contact the points spring.

It sounds like we've (you've!) isolated where the problem is. Yes, there seems to be a short-circuit, as the points act like a switch; their opening and closing switches the coil power on and off. To start with, I would remove the points and then re-fit them, making SURE the side connected to...

If you've no spark at the plug when the plugs earthed to the engine block & the engine's turning over there's no H.T. current reaching the plug. I'd suggest going back one stage and confirm there's 12 volts at the coil's "+" terminal when the ignition's on. If there is, open the distributor &...

Yes, you need to change only ONE thing at a time! Here we go: Check the following, in the following order: 1/ Is the timing "spot on"? Check it is and, if it isn't, adjust accordingly. 2/ Remove one of the sparking plugs and rest it on the top of the engine, with its H.T. lead still connected...

The two warning lights (temperature and oil pressure) are wired so that, in the event of the oil pressure dropping BOTH lights come on. This is why when the ignition's switched on, again BOTH lights illuminate. You can check they're working properly by disconnecting the feed to the oil pressure...

Bloody hell, that belt HAS seen better days....! Change that straight away & see if it improves things before doing anything drastic!

I fitted an oil pressure gauge to an air-cooled Daf a few years ago, using a t-piece to connect a pipe to the oil cooler, allowing me to mount the pressure sensor on the inside of the wing. It worked perfectly, so I reckon using a t-piece where the oil pressure warning light sensor screws into...

Weird.... I grew up in north Devon & did my mechanic's apprenticeship there! I moved to north London & there's a company here who refurbish alternators and offer a mail-order business: https://www.unitexchange.com/ I can personally confirm their work as being excellent!

Are you certain the firing order's correct? It should be 1,3,4,2, but if the removal of two leads makes difference it may be that they are incorrectly fitted.

Yes, there's a dead short somewhere! I'll explain what should happen: When the ignition's turned on the current runs from the battery, through the key and to the +ve side of the coil. The current then runs from the "CB" (contact breaker) side of the coil to the distributor; when the points are...

Yes, it sounds like a duff set of leads-it does happen! using a multi-meter set on the maximum resistance setting (usually 2M Ohms) you should have very little resistance at all from the lug inside the distributor cap and the spark plug terminal. Whatever the resistance values they should be...

To ensure the coil's producing a spark try this: Using a long H.T. lead connect one end to the coil's central (H.T.) terminal and push a spark plug into the other end. Rest the plug on the battery's -ve terminal and ask an assistant to switch on the starter. You should see regular blue sparking...