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If the bulb's good and the alternator's working properly then the fault lies in the wiring. There's a lead connecting the alternator to the ignition warning light. Work out which one it is & disconnect it from the back of the alternator, turn on the ignition and touch the wire to earth; the...

ABSOLUTELY! That's a fail, even if your garage's sympathetic to classic cars. Your cornering would feel different left to right and the car may slew under violent braking. The brake imbalance may have been caused by the odd tyres, as more tread would be on the ground on one side than the other...

Power Units Ltd., of Hatfield, Hertfordshire. PM me if you need contact details.

Clunking's a classic indication of drive shaft wear. Another test is to corner on full lock and accelerate, noting if the noise is louder when turning to the right or the left. The clunking will be louder on the inside wheel but, as has been said, if one's worn to the point that one can hear it...

Yes, they are, but by using a 6 volt ballasted coil the plugs are given a "double blast" by having 12 volts put directly through the coil only when the starter is operated. This helps starting and doesn't do the coil any harm for a short burst. When the car's running normally the ballast reduces...

Some coils are ballasted, meaning that they are 6 volt ones, but operating on 12volt electrical system. They therefore have to be ballasted to half the voltage going through them. The car's wiring is usually set to pass 12 volts through the coil when the starter is operated, so that the plugs...

It looks as if you have two shades of red there, although that may be an effect of the camera. Stand back from the car a little and if the blemishes concern you, then maybe think about treating them. I can't see any rust at all in the pictures, which is really good news and do bear in mind the...

First the easy one: My headlamps failed for the same reasons and I removed them both, sending them to a company in Birmingham called "The Genius Of The Lamp" in Birmingham, who refurbished them perfectly. Later re-fitment made my night driving much better! Now the hard one: The C.V. boot...

As Andy says, red paintwork always fades more quickly. I worked for a V.W. dealership many (many!) years ago and the red Polo estates (they were nicknamed bread vans!) were often being resprayed after less than a year, under the V.W. guarantee! As for being ripped off, let me assure you that...

I lowered the tank from under the car, but, having read your most recent post it seems someone's cut through the floor of the boot to access the sender unit, so you won't have to! Yes, this is where the problem was with the car I fixed. I bought a new sender unit from V.D.O.

I've had a similar problem with a Renault; the problem was the seal on the top of the tank, where the sender unit was fitted. This had perished, allowing the fuel to soak through onto the top of the tank, particularly when full. Changing the gasket and carefully tightening everything solved the...

Altrbnatively, https://www.carburetterexchange.co.uk are worth a try. They're in Brighton Buzzard. I've used them on a number of occasions and can confirm the quality of their workmanship.

Are you certain the problem's with the carburettor? Is the ignition set-up correct? A mis-fire under load can sometimes be a sign of a failed or failing condenser. As you're smelling fuel it could be because the ignition's not fully burning the it and a failed condenser can cause a weak spark...

This form of automatic choke was not Renault's "finest hour" and, as has been said, was discontinued from the nearly 1960s. Workshop manuals have suggested conversion to a manual choke arrangement. The theory of the system was good, but its application didn't work too well, relying on a peculiar...

Electrical gremlins, such as dirty plugs, damp H.T. leads, points not opening properly, damp in the points, condenser failure etc. might be worth a look.....

I'll be your second opinion, and I agree with your local garage. It's always difficult to be 100% certain without seeing the car in the flesh, so to speak, but given the symptoms you describe and, particularly reference to the muck and debris in the coolant bottle, I would concur with them...

Could the white smoke be oil that's seeped past the gasket between the engine block and the pump? Maybe the gasket's leaking or is damaged in some way? Was there a block between the pump and the engine body that Wes of a different thickness to the original? if oil's seepng into the fuel somehow...

I shall investigate this.

I won't comment on the disappearing coolant, which, as has been said, is weird. That aside, did you replace the condenser (capacitor) when you were working on the car? I ask, as the symptoms you describe are classic condenser failure ones. The dying condenser can handle the engine working at low...

The carburettor has two screw adjustments; one changes the idle (tick-over) speed and the other alters the mixture (richness.) To tune the engine the mixture needs to be correctly set, and this method assumes the ignition (points gap, plugs gap, condenser function, HT lead & rotor arm condition...