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This could well be a real ex-Routes du Monde car. Interesting!

I can ask at some motorcycle breakers here if you are interested. Some Honda CB50s had a mechanical front disc brake, too, is it maybe the same caliper? Do you have a picture of your existing caliper? Since the mopeds have a disc thickness of 3-4 mm and the Renault disc is 10mm, how are you...

The gear on the mainshaft is actually a nut. There are two flats for an open end spanner between the gear and the bearing - visible on your photo. The spanner size is 29mm if I remember correctly, but needs to be ground down until it's about 3mm thick. This nut is also staked on the mainshaft at...

Correct part number for the RHD cover is 77 00 708 643. It's different between LHD and RHD. The difference on these two covers is on the lip where the steering column exits: there is another one on the instrument panel cover and a circlip ties them together. I think this is the arrangement on...

I think your problem is more related to the outer CV joints being larger in diameter than factory ones.

Renault 5 Alpine or TX / Parisienne, if you can actually find them nowadays. Most seats from modern cars will not fit, and if they do, they need modification.

There is no "usual" 32DIS, they were fitted to a variety of engines and three digit code refers to jetting and other settings according to engine it was built for. Your 806 was an original fitment to 1108 R5, so should be spot on for your engine. In fact, if it's coupled to the correct R5...

It's actually part of the chassis and welded on...not an easy task to remove / replace it.

Bolt the outer mounting and prop the stub axle so that the outer bushing is not under strain because of the arm weight. Idea is to have all six mounting holes of both brackets aligned with chassis holes. Makes refitting the arm so much easier!

Better to fit the mounting at the position it was with torsion bar off, provided that the old bush still feels "springy" - this is its initial position.

It must leave this gap of 3-4mm, otherwise the arm will rub on the inner mounting during suspension movement.

Try heating the gearbox end cover with a hot air gun, directing it to the aluminium around the plastic bush. I usually lever -very gently- between the gear and the cover and remove it as an assembly.

This info is missing from all manuals, official or not. Many years ago, when I first encountered this problem, I had thought a method of marking an inner mounting fixing hole position in relationship to (previously installed as per the manual) outer bush mounting. It worked but was too fussy in...

65€ for a Hankook 50Ah battery, 2 year warranty, too.

I agree with Malcolm, removal and refitting of this type of shoes is very easy if you take them out as an assembly with all parts attached, after you remove the spring retainers. Again, these are not easy to remove or fit if you don't have the right tool. Find an old screwdriver that fits...

If thread damage is not too bad you can get a M14x1.25 tap and clean the thread. Dip the tap in grease beforehand and all chips will stick on the tap like magic. If damage is severe, you have to fit a special solid thread insert, not Heli-Coil. But it's still doable with head on car. Here, there...

Nothing strange. A RHD TL is bought new in 1978 and registered. Then at some point of its life it gets knackered, rotten beyond repair or crashed. Owner finds a good GTL imported from France, without papers, transfers the body plate and cuts and welds the chassis number on the GTL, then...

This is a late chassis! Holes on the front floor toeboard and handbrake lever bracket confirm this, too. I think it matches the body - the whole car in fact.

Wait, I asked you for a photo because I suspect that chassis number only may had been transferred on a later chassis. Front torsion bar anchor points will tell us the truth. Also I see you have internal door hinges and small tailgate hinges, so whole bodyshell is post-83.