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Oval plate is from a Cyprian market RHD 1978 TL. If you have, or you can take, a picture from the rear part of that crossmember - imagine what the toes of the rear passengers "see" - it will be clear whether the chassis came from the TL or they changed it with the bodyshell.

The diamond plate reads R1123 - this is from an 845cc car - and is fixed on the bulkhead boss for a rectangular plate. The holes for the LHD parts look to be there and plugged. It is what I suspected - a re-shelled chassis. Can you please post pictures of the oval plate, and also the rear part...

You can always ask for the "fiche d' usine" at Renault Classic. they send you a copy of the data sheet that keep for every car that leaves the factory, and has all the data you need, including its "birth date".

My point is that, a torque wrench is more of a measuring instrument than a ratchet. If you set it to 5,5 kgm and it clicks to an actual torque of, say, 7 kgm, it's obviously useless. Were the new bolts of a reputable brand, too?

Is your torque wrench a good one?

If the tailgate can be shut with little or no effort, it will certainly rattle and squeak on the road. You have to adjust its lock pin on the boot floor so that it needs a considerable push to lock, or locks by itself when the tailgate is being left to fall from horizontal position. A sloppy...

You are right, you will find spare female bullet connectors on both sides of engine compartment wiring loom.

Just noticed the two pdfs that JdeW posted and they have the settings for the 32 DIR 100, original equipment for your engine, and they are quite different from the Volvo engine I posted.

Be aware that the 2CV frame is some 10cm taller because it is mounted on the floor rather than on a crossmember, as on the R4.

The 32 DIR 81 carburettor is for an Alfasud / Alfa 33. If you can actually find internal parts, here is the jetting for the 1397 engine as fitted on the Volvo 343 engine, which should be identical to Renault C2J: 1st stage: Main jet 120 Idle jet 47 Air corrector 180 Emulsion tube F20 Idle air...

Try wiggling all fuses with ignition switch on. Seems to me like a corroded fuse end - a classic with this type of fuse. I don't think it has something to do with the battery being put back on, there is nothing to blow on these cars!

5,5 kgm for the head bolts. No torque spec for either the manifold nuts - 2 kgm is the standard torque figure for M8 nuts, if you can fit a torque wrench there. ;) The same goes for water pump bolts, 0,8 - 1 kgm is a normal tightening torque for them.

You must use washers on these head bolts. No need to fit new ones, just make sure these came off the old head bolts and not from somewhere else. They are special high tensile steel. Cylinder head bolts can be reused as they are not tightened past their yield point on this engine. It's...

It's the distributor / oil pump drive gear, that meshes with a gear on the camshaft. I'm afraid that, if there are broken or worn teeth on this gear, the camshaft may be damaged, too. This is the gear that is held in the block by the threaded bush we were talking about.

Both tensioners have 15mm shafts so you can swap pulleys easily.

I guess you have the sheet metal type of pulley. Unfortunately the bearing isn't practically replaceable on this type, there are no circlips hoding it in the pulley, but rather the pulley is punched around the bearing. Try to find a secondhand earlier style pulley wih circlips, to be able to...

Do you mean 10W-30? It is too thin an oil, except if you live in a cold area. Plus, it's usually synthetic or semi-synthetic, which our engines generally don't like. Copper grease is a completely different thing from copper gasket sealant, obviously. Sealant is not necessary if your head has...

Thread size is M22x2.0 .

The bushing needs to be removed first. It's a press fit in the block so you will either need to drop the sump (oil pan) and tap it from below, or -easier maybe - to make a tool and pull it off. It has an internal thread for this purpose, can't remember its size but I think it has been mentioned...

Have a look inside the carburettor throat with choke flap open. With engine running at idle, you should not see fuel puddling on the throttle butterfly (the one that is located at the bottom of the carburettor), nor fuel dripping from the diffuser.