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This is exactly where I think the problem may be. The 1108cc Renault engines were used in Daf 55 & 66 cars, of which I have more experience, and this was a frequent problem. If there's even a small air leak in the area then as the engine revs increase the air leak will become a flood, thus...

Re-setting the points gap means that you now need to re-set the timing. I've outlined the static method above, but I agree that getting the engine running smoothly at about 2000 RPM, then turning the distributor until the engine's running at its maximum speed is a good way to get it near enough...

It might be my age, but it was stockings when I was younger........ But enough of this frivolity, is the Renault sorted yet?

ABSOLUTELY! That was the "back of a fag packet" (quite literally!) method we used in extremis at the roadside, too!

Screwing it IN weakens the mixture and screwing it OUT enriches it. Usually that means ANTIclockwise to enriches and clockwise to weaken. I hope you sort it!

As it was (presumably) running properly when it want in the barn, I'd suggest the residual fuel in the tank is past its best and so enriching it with the choke out is giving the engine extra rich fuel, which is weak in the first place, thus giving the engine normal strength fuel. Fill the tank...

It's a bit far from you, but they might offer a mail-order service; Unit Exchange, in Borehamwood are excellent at restoring starter motors, dynamos etc. https://www.unitexchange.com Worth a try!

There are TWO points to appreciate here: 1/ The points gap. This is the gap between the 2 halves of the points, measured by feeler gauges, at the point when the points are at their maximum opening. If you have a dwell meter, this gap can be more accurately set by using this measure, which is 56...

You mention changing the distributor; did you also change the condenser (sometimes called the capacitor)? The symptoms you describe are typical of a condenser failing as it warms up. As well as changing the distributor, were the points checked for condition and gap setting? The gap setting is...

Just to make it clearer, a big thick lead should go from the positive ("+") terminal of the battery to the solenoid and needs to be securely clamped at both ends. There's a thinner wire also connected to the solenoid and it is this wire that energises the solenoid. Check that this wire is...

Interesting that you say that the headlights "stay bright all the time-no dimming when you try to start". This may well mean the battery's in good health but it also suggests that current is NOT reaching the starter motor, as the headlights should dim when the starter is operated. I think the...

Without seeing the car in the flesh it sounds like the starter motor's not receiving enough current. If the battery's in good health and fully charged I'd check the following and in this order: 1/ Battery connections; are they shiny and tight? 2/ Car frame to engine block strap; somewhere...

The M.O.T. exemption applies to vehicles over 40 years old, so your 4 would qualify after its next M.O.T. However.... I am one of many who doesn't agree with the exemption, since I am of the opinion that ALL vehicles used on the public highway, should be subject to an M.O.T. inspection...

Is the car safely back on a driveway now? If so, perhaps you'd be able to fix it yourself, with a little help from this forum.....

I know a place that'd fix it, if you're interested.

The condenser in the picture doesn't look in the best of health. In particular, the connection at the top looks worn. I'd replace it anyway. It should have a value of 2.7 micro-farads somewhere on it.

Yes, it would. Although I understood the condenser to be new. Mind you, "new" doesn't always mean "good"! There's a way of testing condensers, using a multi-meter, should you need to know it.

If memory serves (and it was a long time ago when last I opened the bonnet of a Renault 5....) the H.T. leads are 4 different lengths, so it is onto which plug they go (longest furthest from the distributor, shortest nearest & the other two as per) However, their positions on the distributor cap...

When you wrote that you'd "rebuilt the distributor" I was wondering if you were certain you had replaced it in the block correctly. It is possible, in some circumstances, to replace it one half of a cycle "out". It's unlikely, but it might be worth checking it. What made me think of this was...

A few thoughts: 1/ Is it possible you've set the ignition 180 degrees out? Many French cars (and others!) have cylinders numbered in a different way to those in England (or Wales...) 2/ New parts aren't always as good as old ones. If you've not thrown the old ones away, try refitting them...