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I damaged a rubber boot on a new driveshaft. I put a new boot on (BOLK from Auto Doc) but it doesn't fit well. I managed to get some clearance to the lower suspension arm but there's probably not enough clearance for all suspension articulation and it'll probably fall off or wear quickly...

Oil filter is normally rear RHS of the block far enough down to make it fiddly to remove. Early cars sometimes didn't have them. If there is a blanking plate you need the adapter to screw in and can fit one.

It is worth draining some oil. Oil floats on top of water so water should be the first to come out of the drain plug while you try to get the oil to the correct level. That would also be a good clue for what is going on. Might just be a bad water pump or something

Oil cap can get oil/water emulsion through lack of use. Does the oil on the dipstick have the emulsion? That would indicate a leak between the water system and the engine oil. Worth confirming that before doing anything. Support strut would make no difference to this. Should you have...

The bearings in the Renault old stock box that went back on are engraved with 10N 6206 F111 B. They'll be the steel cage ones. What a pain of a job again - it's a drum brake car and the front brake hose had to be disconnected to remove the driveshaft. Noticed the brake pipe routing was...

It's good to know the bearings weren't supposed to be there. They are SNR 10N6206 but it looks like there are some different types with that number and I guess my variety is U12. The F111B variant would be good for a wheel bearing but I can't see that written anywhere so probably someone...

Here we go: https://www.itv.com/watch/joanna-lumleys-spice-trail-adventure/10a2971/10a2971a0003 at 6:12 to 8:45

I had the Rodeo seats re-trimmed recently retaining the original foam. Initially they were too high but they settled down a long way over a few days and they are fine now. With new foam maybe they won't settle so quickly but it's worth giving it a chance before modifying the seats as there...

I started changing front wheel bearings and found the plastic parts that retain the ball bearings had fallen out. All the balls were at one side of the bearing which would account for the loud knocking on the last run. The other side doesn't turn smoothly so another pair of bearings on order...

I think the NOVA rules have changed since I did mine and now the NOVA needs to be filled in by a specialist. Worth searching the government site for importing a car. Still no duty on an old car but the form needs filling in.

Backfiring on engine braking generally means the exhaust manifold is too hot. That happens when the timing is too retarded. Worth checking the timing once you are happy with the points.

The sealant is difficult to remove. I normally use a heat gun to soften the sealant so I can cut through with a knife. There are photos of all the normal rust spots on https://www.renault4.co.uk/renault-4-restoration.htm which might help work out what the structure should look like.

I fitted a short starter motor on the Rodeo and found the battery cable and the wire from the ignition switch needed to be extended. But if the wires reach to the new starter I can't see any problem with using the shorter one.

That's looking really good. It's nice to see an early car being saved with so much attention to detail.

I took the driveshaft off. The CV joint is very stiff and the joint can't be moved by hand. I think these are old stock reproduction driveshafts and the bearing surface is roughly finished and has a deep wear mark. That's a lot of wear for 100km so I will probably need a pair of driveshafts...

It's 6mm.

The Rodeo broke twice today. 8km away from home I had a bad knocking noise from somewhere near the front left hub. I found the noise mostly went away at about 50km/h so decided to try to make it home. 2km away from home the engine died. It started again after a few minutes then died again...

It takes a lot of applications of penetrating oil. The shaft bearing is about 100mm long and takes a while for the oil to get down it.

So long as the original date of registration was before the start of the year you can apply for historical status and don't need an MOT to do that.

It'll be the shaft that goes into the gearbox to operate the clutch. They seize up after a while. Normally spraying penetrating fluid where the shaft goes into the outside of the gearbox will fix it. Some photos here: https://www.renault4.co.uk/tech-clutch-seize.htm