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Does anyone know anything about distributor types for early engines? I've bought a 123 distributor (above in photo) but the body is different from the distributor that came out of the engine (below). It'll fit if I remove the bush and seems to be designed for a clamp down fastening rather...

I have a similar problem on my Billancourt engine. My first step is fitting a temperature gauge to see what the temperature gets to before overheating. If it only gets to less than 100 degrees the system isn't pressurising. If it gets to maybe 105 or 110 degrees the system is pressurising...

A lot of us fit 145 80 13 tyres. There is a much better choice in that size.

I didn't realise there was supposed to be a fan cowl. Mine is missing. There is a photo in the manual so I can make one unless anyone has a spare.

I've been thinking a lot about the overheating. I've been having trouble setting the ignition timing so it works in all conditions. When I set it by the book it is way off and I think It's because the distributor advance no longer works as designed. I've been advancing the ignition a...

The expansion bottle was half full this morning and it was only that quantity of coolant that was lost. The system is bled. I turned the interior heater and fan on after the coolant light came on. That should have added some extra cooling and there was plenty of very hot air coming out of...

The Rodeo is great in the hot weather - lots of ventilation and a roof for shade. Unfortunately it overheats driving at a constant 80km/h. Yesterday the red cooling light came on but everything was fine. Today it was 28C and some water came out of the expansion bottle. Radiator is full...

True enough I'm thinking backwards. Here's a picture of mine. My latch does seem to rest more open than yours. The return of the latch part is limited by the shim that sits between the mechanism and the bulkhead. Possibly yours is missing the shim and the latch is being limited by the...

The latch is already closed (at least in the second photo). Put the spring back in place and pop the latch open using the bonnet release button beside the gearstick.

I don't think replacement roof parts exist. Fibreglass will be bad as it will trap water and rust out the steel around. Welded repairs are tricky as there are compound curves that are tricky to replicate and parts of the finished weld end up in the gutter. Best thing would be to cut a...

The fuel tank took 3 weeks to arrive. A week in customs then a week and a half trying to get the reference number I needed to pay the customs charge. Still, it's here now and fitted with the tank guard in case I go off-roading. This one was from Der Franzose but I suspect all the suppliers...

I don't think there were design changes to the engine. They tended to change type number when they altered the engine. There were different carburettors, ignition parts, alternators etc and for those it's best to search for parts for whichever ones you have.

They weren't fitted to all models so aren't an essential safety thing. My F4 doesn't have them.

The seats wouldn't be original for an '84 UK market GTL. You would expect red tartan fabric seats on a silver car. That chassis looks really bad. Don't think I've seen a worse one. Looks like someone has riveted plates to the underneath. These will have trapped water and rotted anything...

There's an electrical connector in the fog lamp wire somewhere underneath the rear of the car that is prone to corroding. Worth checking that first.

This is a really nicely done project. Have you got a water drier in the feed to the paint gun? - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/air-system.htm Might be something everybody else knows about but for me it took 20 years to figure that bit out so worth mentioning before you do the top coat.

I bought the Exide EB450 last time. Terminals are the right way around and it has the tab at the bottom for the battery clamp. The really useful thing is to buy a battery disconnect switch (the green thing in the photo). Twist the knob to disconnect the battery if you aren't using the car for...

I did a conversion 30 years ago and used all GTL parts. Problem with that is I had to remove the bonnet reinforcements to clear the radiator and that made the bonnet a bit floppy. For right hand drive cars the fuel pump fouled the handbrake but that shouldn't be a problem with left hand...

I needed a new fuel sender. The old one could be opened up for servicing but one of the tiny wires was stray and I couldn't figure out where it went or how to put it back there. So thought if I'm going to wait 2 weeks for the sender to get through customs I might as well go for a new tank as...

A new tank would be about £400 after postage and import taxes. The tank is strong, it just has some pin holes from the rust. A tank sealer should seal the holes and prevent further rust.