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The seats wouldn't be original for an '84 UK market GTL. You would expect red tartan fabric seats on a silver car. That chassis looks really bad. Don't think I've seen a worse one. Looks like someone has riveted plates to the underneath. These will have trapped water and rotted anything...

There's an electrical connector in the fog lamp wire somewhere underneath the rear of the car that is prone to corroding. Worth checking that first.

This is a really nicely done project. Have you got a water drier in the feed to the paint gun? - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/air-system.htm Might be something everybody else knows about but for me it took 20 years to figure that bit out so worth mentioning before you do the top coat.

I bought the Exide EB450 last time. Terminals are the right way around and it has the tab at the bottom for the battery clamp. The really useful thing is to buy a battery disconnect switch (the green thing in the photo). Twist the knob to disconnect the battery if you aren't using the car for...

I did a conversion 30 years ago and used all GTL parts. Problem with that is I had to remove the bonnet reinforcements to clear the radiator and that made the bonnet a bit floppy. For right hand drive cars the fuel pump fouled the handbrake but that shouldn't be a problem with left hand...

I needed a new fuel sender. The old one could be opened up for servicing but one of the tiny wires was stray and I couldn't figure out where it went or how to put it back there. So thought if I'm going to wait 2 weeks for the sender to get through customs I might as well go for a new tank as...

A new tank would be about £400 after postage and import taxes. The tank is strong, it just has some pin holes from the rust. A tank sealer should seal the holes and prevent further rust.

The tank was very rusty inside. I ended up using brick cleaner - seems to be the same stuff as spirit of salts. I took some before and after shots. Unfortunately some of the pitting went all the way through the tank. I've ordered some tank sealer.

I've had this happen before. I don't try to unscrew the fuel drain now. If I recall mine was brazed in. It's difficult to fix as any welding or brazing risks making the fuel tank explode. Maybe a fuel and ethanol resistant epoxy would work. JB Weld night have one

There is a description of the replacement process here: https://www.renault4.co.uk/gordini-apex-repair.htm Maybe a modern adhesive would work but I don't know of anyone who has tried that.

It is welded on. Yours doesn't look bad enough to replace. I've welded up holes in the seam in the past, but if that's normal possible there is nothing much wrong with a bit of filler/ fibreglass/ bit of beer can glued on possibly applied from the inside and sealed on the outside after the...

I made it to work and back - a total of 50km! The Rodeo ran very well. It can keep up with trucks easily but won't go much faster than that. Hopefully I can do another 100km this week to empty the fuel tank so I can clean it out at the weekend. That fuel filter was new and the float...

That's a good point. I chopped up the fuel filter (mine is after the pump) and there was a lot less sludge in the filter than was in the float chamber. Maybe I shouldn't buy cheap fuel filters. I've changed it for an old one that should hopefully last until the fuel level gets low enough...

I did some more work on the Rodeo today and it only broke down once which is pretty good. This time it was rust from the fuel tank that had got past the fuel filter and settled in the float chamber blocking the main jet. I'll need to take the tank out and give it a good clean. I took the...

The rear brake issue is odd. When it's front and rear brakes it's typically adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod. But both rear brakes only must surely be a problem with the rear brake proportioning valve. Good to hear the brakes aren't locking on any more. Maybe the valve got stuck...

I had a lot of problems with driveshaft clearance to the lower wishbones with some new old stock driveshafts. After a year of messing and trying other lower ball joints I ended up hitting the lower wishbone with a hammer a little to make some more space. Today the Rodeo came out of...

For the miles I do any conversion would not benefit the environment. Quite a large portion of the cost of the conversion is energy cost which will never be paid back by the few hundred miles a year driving using no energy at all (or whatever these things claim to do). Car mods are fun though...

That's quite fun. The Late Brake guy is a car enthusiast so always good to watch, and it's good that kits are available just in case petrol engined cars become illegal at some point in the future. Not sure the battery location would suit Claude the F4 very well.

I run 145/80/R13 on all of mine. Uniroyal RainExpert are my current favourites. This makes the tyres slightly larger diameter than the originals but the speedometer is accurate. There should be no rubbing problems with 145 tyres.

I would be wondering about the carb too. Normally when you have fuel vaporisation the fuel boils off through a breather. The boiling should never force fuel out of any overflow. Hot restarting is typical for the R4. Good to see another heatshield there. I did some work on fuel...