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I've booked the van in for an MOT so thought I had better drive it up and down the road to make sure it is capable of getting there. It worked fine up to 25mph but after that started to run badly and would die on throttle. Couldn't figure it out. The points are new and I checked the gap and...

I've attached a wiring diagram for a 1979 car with your fusebox. It shows how the fusebox is connected internally. It should be a case of removing any wire in the fusebox that might provide the ignition wire with 12V when the ignition is off until the engine stops running. You might need...

The normal sources for shims would be Melun, Franzose or Mecaparts. If they don't have then then probably finding someone with a used engine. Or an eBay search to see if any other cars have similar parts. I've not had trouble with removing the collets but the cylinder head shape is awkward...

New ignition leads have cured the misfire at idle. The engine runs much better now and is much less sensitive to the choke. I think the old coil lead was the original and had failed causing a weak spark. That's a relief - I thought it might have been a valve. The new leads are the type of...

It's been snowing this week. Not much happening on the cars but they are insured now and the Rodeo seats are at the trimmer. I've been servicing. The air filter is probably the dirtiest one I've ever seen. I wondered if it might have been the original but it was made by Tecnocar in Italy...

Even more strange. The starter tested OK when removed. The mounting to the engine was very dirty and I wonder if it wasn't making a good earth. Cleaned it up and put the starter back in and it works! I can check things now. The new thermostat opens, the dynamo charges and the clutch...

This is odd. The new starter worked perfectly for maybe 5 starts and now it just clicks and doesn't turn. Perhaps I should not buy parts because they are the cheapest. I guess remove it and test off the car before sending it back. Tried turning the flywheel to some new positions but...

Starter replacement was a pain. They are inaccessible enough to start with but this one had a larger diameter solenoid which prevented access to the top bolt with a socket. I had to change the bolt for an allen head one. The solenoid was further forward and I had to extend the ignition...

That's good news. I was worried I would have to remove the flywheel. The dash is in and I painted the roll hoop this morning. Steering column is out again for access to the starter motor and seats are just sitting there to help position the seatbelts. I think I'll have the seats re-covered...

The engine did start and runs really well. I turned it off to fix some fuel mixture problems and it hasn't started since. The starter clicks and spins but doesn't turn the engine. Turns out the teeth are damaged on both the starter and the flywheel starter ring. The starter ring gear...

Finally the electrics are all working and the instrument panel is back in position. I wanted to get the dash in too but I'm still waiting for the washer jets to arrive. A tidy up should probably be next on the list. The screen wash pump was leaking from it's body. I had a spare but it...

Some had Ducellier. But the Femsa was more common in the UK.

The inner pulley on my R5 TX with the dual belts came already attached to the new waterpump. I don't think it is removable.

The head is aluminium. It's really common for waterpump bolts to snap and that doesn't write off the cylinder head.. Maybe youtube for ideas how to extract the broken bolts. It's difficult to make suggestions without photos of the problem. Doesn't the pulley unbolt from the waterpump?

I fitted the new heater hoses (they weren't a good fit) and tried bleeding the cooling system. I don't remember changing the coolant after buying the car but the coolant that came out was clean. I was worrying I would find rusty stuff and bad cylinder liners after all this time. I realised...

I've attached a PDF of the wiring diagram for a 1973 car which is probably close enough. Renault copyright but I'm sure they won't mind us using it to keep their cars alive for 50 years.

If turning the mixture screw out too far made the car easier to start that might suggest something is blocking the fuel when the choke is closed. It would be worth removing the top of the carburettor and cleaning out any residue in the bottom of the float chamber and cleaning out the jets...

You do have a dynamo not an alternator. The dynamo is DC and needs the voltage regulator box mounted on the firewall. An alternator charges in AC and has an internal rectifier that does away with the need for the regulator box. So you are looking good. Which wires are you trying to figure...

De Marco are wrong. The system changed with Brexit and the end of the common VAT system. After 2021 we now pay VAT in the UK on imported goods and should not be charged VAT in the source country. It's all a pain but the European suppliers who have worked it all out will have registered...

The wheels are ready. I got lazy and had someone shotblast and paint them. They ended up costing £38 each. The ones without the hole in the middle are early van wheels for the Rodeo. The rest are for Claude.