The carb looks like a Zenith 28IF - the one that most of our cars have.
As you've taken the top off, it'd be worth taking the whole carburettor off and blowing through the main and idle jets (a footpump with a fine nozzle works well if you're careful). Make sure that the long tube (blue arrow in 2nd photo) is clear (yours looks a bit bent); you can do this with a long piece of soft electrical wire. Same for the passageways in the bottom part of the carb (they look a bit crusty in the photos). Use plenty of carb cleaner as well as air to flush through these and the filter in the 'doorbell' (yellow arrow in 2nd photo).
One other thing - it looks as though you've removed the spring that goes from the accelerator cable plate to the inner wing. When it's in place, the whole thing should look like this:
View attachment 35050
Good luck with it!
Lots of info here:
Démontage et réglage interne d'un carburateur Zénith 28 IF monté sur certain modèles de Renault 4 (entre autres...)
www.la4ldesylvie.fr
Hi, i did yesterday this positive throttle opening adjustment for my Zenith 28IFand the result was the following;
1. starting became totally unproblematic, starts by the first attempt always no meaning if hot or cold (have had tremendous difficulties fo years)
2. idle went very fast, actually cannot anymore adjust it by the screw when the thread connecting butterfly and choke flap moved flap operating counterpart too far away.
3. has no meaning to adjust the mixture screw, worked totally open and totally clopsed, went to a test drive totally closed, car was powerlessa and could not reach 80km/h.
Actually car running went to a odd hearing more(could be fault of my distributor/spark plugs&wires check) but it sounded like saab v4 motor.I have to check this matter again today.Connecting threads lower connection seem to be quite loose and worn out.
I also found what Mojaby wrote to Harbourseal on Feb 23,207 " That little capmhasmade huge difference in starting when the engine is cold.So much easier now"
Positive throttle opening adjustment:
- Insert a pin of diameter
B (see table above) between the butterfly and the bore of the carburetor body
- Unscrew the screw (
1 ) of the rod (
2 ) connecting the cold start flap and the throttle butterfly
- Close the cold start flap (upper flap)
- In this position (cold start flap closed and throttle butterfly held open using the pin of diameter
B ) slide the rod upwards then screw in the screw
V
Update 16th May;
- took again off carb
- took off the heat plate undercarb and adjusted it with precices sealings and heat resisting thick spacer(actually this palte is underof one of the head bolts.
- cheked that the spring on choke flap is on its hole(it often escapes from its hole when it is so thin wire)
- checked again the rod position btw choke flap and butterfly flap
- adjusted idle screw , adjusted the mixture screw to its recommendedpostion(2½-3 turns)
- checked that all spark plug wires has good connection
seems that now it starts easily and runs clearly and what is most important can resist gas pedal and reflects w-out delay and w-out caughing
as always most peculiar thing is that after all this i do not know which measures were the key factors
