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Cost to replace a clutch and any advice.

B

branty

Enthusiast
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My clutch is jammed and won’t free up with the Haynes method after a few weeks laid up. I feel it may be time for a clutch replacement although it worked fine after 40,000 miles.
Does this seem a sensible thing to do?
Would anyone do anything else?
What tips are here to give the mechanic about sourcing and replacing the clutch? - I am lucky to have a good local garage with an older mechanic who worked in R4s in the past so I don’t feel the need to go further afield to many of the national excellent R4 interested mechanics. I hope I am correct about this...
Thank you
Jon
 
Have car been standing long time since last use?
If clutch don’t want to disengage there some things you can test.
Sometimes clutch plate jam (rust) to the flywheel. Then clutch pedal feels normal but don’t disengage.
Fouth gear, brakes on clutch pedal down then turn starter motor. Often this is enough to get clutch plate loosen.
Can also be clutch able need adjustment.
Everything in very visible between engine and gearbox (most cars you can’t see anything without dismantling gearbox).
 
Sure I have read on this forum that sometimes the actual clutch operating lever can seize in the bell housing bushes, lubricating the shaft where it enters the gearbox bell housing (iirc WD40) potentially freeing up operating lever, if effective (and problem) could be a lot cheaper and easier than a clutch change.
 
I replaced my clutch late last year with a mate. Not a massive job took me and my mate a day
 
Homegrown said:
Have car been standing long time since last use?
If clutch don’t want to disengage there some things you can test.
Sometimes clutch plate jam (rust) to the flywheel. Then clutch pedal feels normal but don’t disengage.
Fouth gear, brakes on clutch pedal down then turn starter motor. Often this is enough to get clutch plate loosen.
Can also be clutch able need adjustment.
Everything in very visible between engine and gearbox (most cars you can’t see anything without dismantling gearbox).
Click to expand...
Thank you
I will try this- the clutch has a history of some sticking and was not standing for long, maybe 4 weeks. I have tried 1st gear and starter motor but will try 4th.
 
laxeian said:
Sure I have read on this forum that sometimes the actual clutch operating lever can seize in the bell housing bushes, lubricating the shaft where it enters the gearbox bell housing (iirc WD40) potentially freeing up operating lever, if effective (and problem) could be a lot cheaper and easier than a clutch change.
Click to expand...
Thanks Laxeian
Will look and try.
Jon
 
Jon,
Heres two photos of where the bushes mentioned are and accessible to spray with lubricant in case they are sticking/seizing, obviously you don’t want to be spraying clutch itself, hope you have a good result with advice given by all.
E0B1D078-523A-4D5B-A6F6-DCDEC8B31A90.jpeg29920FA6-9DF4-45B8-A38A-F416D7B20C82.jpeg
 
Thanks again
The clutch was working well a couple of months ago although always made a mild and not unpleasant gentle squeal on changing gear as it engaged but never amounted to more than this
. At 40,000 miles I figured that the clutch plate was thin and the rivets were exposed from my reading around the subject. So I probably should consider a new clutch anyway.
I have tried these moves with no good effect but thank you again for all the advise. I have not been able to adjust the clutch as the 2 nuts at the end of the cable are difficult to reach- is this really worth a try when it did not slip before?

So, then back to how easy is it for a garage to replace?
Jon
 
A squeal when changing gear is more likely to be the clutch thrust bearing than the clutch itself, so when you do have your clutch changed change the thrust bearing at same time, some sites do offer clutch, clutch plate and thrust bearing as a kit. If all done at once it would save having to pay labour costs in the future if an unchanged piece fails.
Most professional garages should have the tools/equipment to make this an easy job, ideally one with experience of 4’s would be your best option to keep labour charges to a minimum, you don’t really want to be paying for their time learning on the job if they have no experience of 4’s in the form of extra hours of labour fees on you bill.
Sure someone on here will be able to point you in the right direction for clutch kits in the UK so you can supply the parts and just pay for garages labour. Valero are a quality clutch parts manufacturer. The driveshafts do have to come out for clutch change, so you will also need gearbox oil as it has to be drained before removal of shafts.
 
Last edited:
laxeian said:
A squeal when changing gear is more likely to be the clutch thrust bearing than the clutch itself, so when you do have your clutch changed change the thrust bearing at same time, some sites do offer clutch, clutch plate and thrust bearing as a kit. If all done at once it would save having to pay labour costs in the future if an unchanged piece fails.
Most professional garages should have the tools/equipment to make this an easy job, ideally one with experience of 4’s would be your best option to keep labour charges to a minimum, you don’t really want to be paying for their time learning on the job if they have no experience of 4’s in the form of extra hours of labour fees on you bill.
Sure someone on here will be able to point you in the right direction for clutch kits in the UK so you can supply the parts and just pay for garages labour. Valero are a quality clutch parts manufacturer. The driveshafts do have to come out for clutch change, so you will also need gearbox oil as it has to be drained before removal of shafts.
Click to expand...
Gearbox oil due a change, I am not sure it has ever been changed!,
Thanks Laxeian
J
 
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