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F6 Van, brake pedal push rod

B

Barnster

Enthusiast
Messages
43
Location
Harrogate
Hi all,

Back to the F6 (R2370) while I wait for parts for the R5.

I've reconditioned all the brakes (lines, pads, disks, shoes, pipes, etc) including the master cylinder (3 ports, one reservoir with two inlets).

I've tried to bleed the system with the pedal but there appears to be no pressure at all - I've used air via the master cylinder cap and there is plenty of pressure.

I've chekced that the pedal pushrod is correctly located into the piston end of the master cylinder and the pedal moves freely all the way to the floor/bulkhead. The only thing I can think of is the pushrod is the wrong length.

It's going to be a pig of a job to remove I guess as access to the pedal/fixing will be a nightmare but are there different length pushrods? Does anybody know the correct length for F6 R2370 as above?

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi

Have you tried bleeding the brakes starting with the furthest bleed nipple away from the master cylinder first, then the second furthest (rears), then the third furthest and then the nearest (fronts)?
 
I tried all four corners, starting with NSR (RHD) pumping the pedal with an assistant, more than 100 times., just in case there was a problem with bias valve or blockage. regardless of which corner there was no fluid until I used eazibleed with air pressure on the cap.

No leaks anywhere under the vehcile.
 
Yes, new front discs/pads, caliper seals flexis and bleed nipple. Rear, new shoes, drums and cylinders. No leaks with pressure bleed.
 
The rear needs to be on the ground for bleeding because of the proportioning valve that limits the rear brakes. Or sit the rear drums on a block of wood. Bleeding statring furthest from the master cylinder should work with the Eezybleed.
 
The eezybleed works fine but once bled there is no action from the peddle when pushed - hence the quetion regarding the length of the length of the pushrod connected to the pedal and pushing against the piston in the master cylinder.
 
You should feel when the rod contacts the master cylinder. When it goes from free travel to acting against something. Normally the free bit will be 5 or 10mm pedal travel.
 
For what it's worth, here's a picture of the pedal assembly from a RHD GTL with the same 3-port master cylinder. The distance from the outside of the nut to the end of the pushrod is 61mm.
1765788680427.jpeg

- Is the new master cylinder sitting firmly against the bulkhead?
- Is there any movement of fluid if you leave the cap off the reservoir?
- Was brake fluid moving correctly with the old master cylinder?
 
Thanks Andy for the pointers. I will check my measurements and that it is mounted flush.

There was no movement of fluid with the cap removed.

The old MC was seized solid so cannot comment!
 
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