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Failed my roadworthy

mojobaby

Enthusiast
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1,311
2 years ago when I went for my last roadworthy test, my indicators worked perfectly beforehand, but failed to work when they tested them. By the time I arrived home, they started working again, by themselves.

Yesterday I was failed because my right front brake needs to be tightened up, my front right light aims too high,and my numberplate light wasn't working. In fact it has never worked since 2002 when I bought the car, and they've passed me every time I've taken the test.
I've always wondered what that loose wire was at the rear door top hinge!! Once I connected it, removed the globe and cleaned the terminals, the light works perfectly.

After the test when I started my car, my indicators didn't work, and neither did my emergency flashers Again! But by the time I arrived home, they started working perfectly. Very mysterious!
 
I had the same problem with indicators in an MOT this week. It was fixed by removing and refitting the wiring connector to the hazard warning switch.
 
I have the same problem with my old Mercedes, everything works ok but when I use ( or test ) the hazzard warning lights, then the indicators stop working !
I figured it out :)......if I switch the hazzards off when the "flashing" on and off is on off ( i.e. the lights are off) the indicators work again if I switch the hazzards off when the lights are "on" ( i.e. flashing ) the indicators do not work ? strange I know but that seems to work for me :confused:
 
yesterday, my front parking light started acting as an indicator and the indicator itself stopped working completely.
I removed the hazard light switch from the dashboard, prised open the little tabs from the little silver frame that surrounds the button and opened it up.
I was pleasantly surprised to find how simple the workings are; not like the complicated modern electronic things that are practically impossible to repair.
DSCF6446.JPG
This is the underside of the button. The white plastic arm in the middle has a spring underneath so care should be taken when removing it.
DSCF6448.JPG
The white plastic arm slots into the groove in the above brown plastic piece which in turn rests on the axles of the little wheels.
The wheels were very corroded
The contact points inside the switch were also corroded and dirty, but they are all fixed to the body of the switch and thus easy to clean. I used carb cleaner and ear buds and the tip of a small screw driver to clean them off.
All my lights, indicators and hazard lights now work perfectly so I think that this was definitely the problem.
 
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