Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

Renault 4 Clutch kit

Hi David,
Welcome to this forum.

I cant open your attachment.
As far as I know ther are no special tools needed to remove the drivechafts.

Regards, Robert
 
G'day Dave,
Tools and parts for removing/replacing drive shafts:
1.roll pin punch, 3mm, for inner roll pins from Repco or whoever
2. Roll pin punch, 5mm for outer roll pins, Repco etc.
3. roll pins- the outers are standard 5mm x 55mm, the inners 3mm x 55 (ideally) or you can use slightly shorter (I have a feeling 55 is hard to get in 3mm, which is probably why I use 50mm which is fine. You can get them from any bearing or industrial fastener supplier local to you. I use Keables in Melbourne. Let me know if you have trouble getting them.
4.Driveshaft end nut which is an 18mm thread I believe. The nut is a nylock. They say replace every time, with nylocks you can reuse a few times before you actually have to replace them. Part number is 7703034238. You could try ordering from your friendly Renault dealer, until recently they would order in parts if the part number was a good one. I suspect Repco or Champions could come up with an alternative but I have never tried.
5. extractor to get driveshaft out of hub and pulling new one back in. Depending on the year of the car and the hub you may or may not need this. Very early cars had a very tight fit between the hub and the driveshaft splines because they were worried about fretting which was a big problem on the 750s and dauphine driveshafts that saw loads from the wheels feeding into the swing axles. Once Renault realised they were not getting that problem with the front drive cars they relaxed the fit. Yours being a comparitively later car you should be alright with a soft copper drift and hammer to get the shaft out and just pushing it back in and doing up the nut. Just don't damage the threads on the end of the shaft. Otherwise you can make an extractor. Take a pice of mild steel rod and turn one end to have a small enough diameter to just go in the hub and tap an internal 18mm (check this) thread. At the other end turn an external thread (say about an inch ,24, 27mm or thereabouts) to go in a nut. You can then use it to create a slide hammer or puller to get the shaft back in. Or with legs with holes going over the wheel studs you can use it as a pusher to get the shaft out if it will not knock out easily. When I first had R4s in the seventies (61-63 models) I went to all the palaver to make these tools. These days, having got another 4 (68 model made late 67) I have never bothered as shafts come in and out OK.
6.Copper washer at base of hub between driveshaft and hub. If its in good condition you can reuse it.

Also worth checking what kind of clutch bearing you have, carbon pad or roller type. If carbon you should change it and ideally convert to a roller one. You can look down the hole from the left side of the engine bay to see which type you have.

All proper bits are available from Melun Retro Passion or Der Francose and they are very quick. It pays to fill up your order with small useful bits though as they both charge a mint for postage to Aust even for very small orders, so if you are paying get a fe bits and bobs.

Also have you got all the parts books? If you need more help post your oval and diamond plate numbers on the forum.

Cheers and good luck.

Piet
 
Thx Piet,

I'll be working on a 61 this spring. I'll keep all this in mind.

Regards, Robert
 
You should be able to get the clutch in Australia,if you have a four speed box the part no is Valeo 003387 i think you have to use this on the three speed as well the only difference being this is a diapahram clutch as opposed to the spring version,they are both 160 mm .
 
No, the 3-speed clutch is completely different in all its components and none can be swapped for later type. This type of clutch can be successfully rebuilt. I may be able to source the parts independently if all else fails.
 
G'day Dave,
Tools and parts for removing/replacing drive shafts:
1.roll pin punch, 3mm, for inner roll pins from Repco or whoever
2. Roll pin punch, 5mm for outer roll pins, Repco etc.
3. roll pins- the outers are standard 5mm x 55mm, the inners 3mm x 55 (ideally) or you can use slightly shorter (I have a feeling 55 is hard to get in 3mm, which is probably why I use 50mm which is fine. You can get them from any bearing or industrial fastener supplier local to you. I use Keables in Melbourne. Let me know if you have trouble getting them.
4.Driveshaft end nut which is an 18mm thread I believe. The nut is a nylock. They say replace every time, with nylocks you can reuse a few times before you actually have to replace them. Part number is 7703034238. You could try ordering from your friendly Renault dealer, until recently they would order in parts if the part number was a good one. I suspect Repco or Champions could come up with an alternative but I have never tried.
5. extractor to get driveshaft out of hub and pulling new one back in. Depending on the year of the car and the hub you may or may not need this. Very early cars had a very tight fit between the hub and the driveshaft splines because they were worried about fretting which was a big problem on the 750s and dauphine driveshafts that saw loads from the wheels feeding into the swing axles. Once Renault realised they were not getting that problem with the front drive cars they relaxed the fit. Yours being a comparitively later car you should be alright with a soft copper drift and hammer to get the shaft out and just pushing it back in and doing up the nut. Just don't damage the threads on the end of the shaft. Otherwise you can make an extractor. Take a pice of mild steel rod and turn one end to have a small enough diameter to just go in the hub and tap an internal 18mm (check this) thread. At the other end turn an external thread (say about an inch ,24, 27mm or thereabouts) to go in a nut. You can then use it to create a slide hammer or puller to get the shaft back in. Or with legs with holes going over the wheel studs you can use it as a pusher to get the shaft out if it will not knock out easily. When I first had R4s in the seventies (61-63 models) I went to all the palaver to make these tools. These days, having got another 4 (68 model made late 67) I have never bothered as shafts come in and out OK.
6.Copper washer at base of hub between driveshaft and hub. If its in good condition you can reuse it.

Also worth checking what kind of clutch bearing you have, carbon pad or roller type. If carbon you should change it and ideally convert to a roller one. You can look down the hole from the left side of the engine bay to see which type you have.

All proper bits are available from Melun Retro Passion or Der Francose and they are very quick. It pays to fill up your order with small useful bits though as they both charge a mint for postage to Aust even for very small orders, so if you are paying get a fe bits and bobs.

Also have you got all the parts books? If you need more help post your oval and diamond plate numbers on the forum.

Cheers and good luck.

Piet
 
Thanks Piet

Sounds like a piece of cake!! Will keep you posted. I can't even think of the number of 2cv clutches I have replaced and what a breeze they were!!

Cheers
David
 
Hi Piet
Oval Plate - R1123 700 #36 16 15
Diamond Plate - R1123 4167340
Other than the Haynes manual I only have Renault workshop manual MR 61 2nd ed. R1120,R1121, R1122, R2102.
Thanks for the info! I'll be in Melbourne next week so will check out Keables.
David
 
Need a clutch kit and drive shaft pins for PPE 322E. Along with info on the tool for removing Drive shafts.View attachment 15136
Hello! This was my dads car! He bought this new in the 60’s and we sold it around 1995 when he sadly died! I’ve got photos of us having lovely camping trips in the beautiful Renault 4! My dads name was Peter Salisbury so guess he’d be on the registration documents! Wondering where the car is now! Lots of happy memories! Heather
 
Back
Top