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Rust repair

Conrad

New Member
Messages
2
Location
France
Hi all,

I just bought my 1st 4l a few weeke ago and it's in need of some attention,my main concern is these 2 spots of rust between the engine bay and the inside, could I get away with just cutting it away and welding some new metal on or will some parts need to be replaced?


Thanks in advance


Conrad

20200416_113938.jpg20200416_113905.jpg20200416_113921.jpg
 

jcarruthers2

Enthusiast
Messages
324
Hi

With regards to welding in this area, you need to take into account the wiring loom is directly behind the bulkhead and you would need to take measures to protect the wiring.
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
695
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
I've seen lot's of rust on the R4 well known spots, but never seen in this state on the bulkhead. This damage is caused from the inside maybe by water running/dripping in through faulty rubber of the front window, corners of the steel window frame could also be corroded (well known spot)
The wiring and every thing else that sits behind and runs through the bulkhead are an issue, I'd say before cutting and welding remove the complete dash and all kinds of cables and wiring that runs trough the bulkhead.
Here are some pictures to give an insight in the welded parts of the bulkhead, parts aren't available (maybe Der Franzose has a thing or two...) so most are DIY.
Bulkhead01.jpg


Bulkhead02.jpg
 

Jnr-Renospeed

Enthusiast
Messages
140
Location
Newington
Also note that it is likely corroded behind where the I.D plates sit and the section in all the hidden bits of the bulkhead may need to be fixed, also if it's that bad in the places in the photos the scuttle panel should be checked for corrosion, it's pretty severe.
 

angel

Enthusiast
Messages
2,155
Location
Athens, Greece
This is the worst place to rust. It's a closed section between the outside air vent and the heater matrix ("boite d' eau" as French call it) and you don't have access from the inside.
Post '83 bulkheads as pictured on JdeW's post are simpler in construction and easier to repair, but Conrad's car is earlier ('81-'82 I guess.)
 

Conrad

New Member
Messages
2
Location
France
Hi all,

Thanks for all the help
@angel is right it's a 1982 4l.

It just looks like it's one piece that's part of the body.

I'll find another car to cannibalize and see what happens.
 

Jnr-Renospeed

Enthusiast
Messages
140
Location
Newington
If you're going to find a more solid car to cannibalize it would be worth just putting the effort into fixing that one rather than chasing the rust on this one, and use the good bits from both to make one solid car.
 

JdeW

Enthusiast
Messages
695
Location
Laarbeek The Netherlands
...and use the good bits from both to make one solid car.
That's keen, mr. Jnr-Renospeed, If I had the space I 'd use all rusty bits from both cars to make one rusty car and install it in my garden as some tribute R4 rust art work :D or another cunning idea would be to restore a R4 using COR-TEN steel for chassis and body :laughing:
 

Jnr-Renospeed

Enthusiast
Messages
140
Location
Newington
That's keen, mr. Jnr-Renospeed, If I had the space I 'd use all rusty bits from both cars to make one rusty car and install it in my garden as some tribute R4 rust art work :D or another cunning idea would be to restore a R4 using COR-TEN steel for chassis and body :laughing:

I'm pretty sure we have a candle holder made from an old water pump pulley hidden away haha :artist:.
 

Domsky

Enthusiast
Messages
116
Location
GLANWORTH republic of Ireland
I got myself cheap bead roller and started making some panels my self, this one is for different car, loads of bits could be done DIY.
 

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