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Won't start! Ignition timing?

beagle

Enthusiastic amateur
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109
Hello once again, spurred on by Ian's Bob Dylan CD I am on the (long) home straight for getting this car back on the road.

I have bolted the vast majority of bits back on and am at the moment of truth- trying to start it for the first time in about a year!:shock:

Mechanically I have:

Stripped and cleaned the carb. (screws to Haynes manual settings)
Stripped and cleaned the distributor.
Fitted new plugs, leads, points (set to 0.40 mm), condenser, cap.
Changed oils, filters, did valve clearances etc.

Sadly, after a fresh battery, petrol and a turn of the key she won't fire up.

The area I suspect the most is the ignition timing.
I followed the Haynes manual for static timing, this is what I did:

* Got the notch on the fly wheel to line up 12mm from the left hand mark on the casing.

* Fitted the distributor so the rotor was pointing to the no. 1 plug contact.

*Connected a bulb circuit between the low tension wire and earth .

* Turned on ignition and then turned the distributor body anticlockwise so the light just went out, then turned the body clockwise till the light just lit up while applying clockwise pressure on the rotor arm.

* Tightened distributor bolt.

Have I done something wrong here? There is a spark on each plug and the float chamber is filling fine.

If I suspect the timing can I simply twist the distributor body a bit while a friend turns the key in a hope that it will find the correct point and fire up??

Tim
 
Sounds about right to me. I can think of a couple of things:

Number 1 cylinder is at the back of the engine near the bulkhead. Not the front where you might normally expect to find it.

You'd need to check valve positions to make sure number 1 is at the point of firing rather than at the other end of it's cycle.

The fuel might have gone off which would make starting tricky. Try spraying easystart or similar into the carb to kick it off.
 
hmmmm

I'm confused, I thought the no.1 cylinder is the one nearest the radiator. My haynes manual states "Most manufactors stick to the convention of using No1 cylinder nearest front (flywheel) end of the engine for adjustment, and Renault is no exception" Or is this only for the 845 cc??
 
You might be right actually. Doesn't matter if it's the front or back so long as you have the rotor arm pointing to that lead and the cylinder is at top dead centre on the firing stroke rather than top dead centre on the exhaust stroke.
 
To tell if its on its firing stroke I've taken the rocker cover off, lined up the notch and then rolled the car forward. On the firing stroke the next valve to open is the exhaust right?
 
It's the place where no valves are opening or closing for half an engine revolution each way. But yes, the exhaust would be the next. I tend to judge it from the cylinder at the other end which will have the exhaust just closing and the inlet just opening.
 
Brrumm brumm

It goes! Thanks Malcom, I've used your convention of no.1 cylinder being nearset the bulkhead and wired it accordingly, It's ok to do this?

Now it won't go into gear, I think the clutch is stuck on, think I'll wait till day light for tackling this :D:clementi:
 
It's OK so long as the spark is heading towards the cylinder that should be firing. Did you get it started? There are ways and means of freeing a clutch once the engine is running.
 
Yes its running! Sounds a bit off but now I can get my timing gun on it. I expect carb need tinkering too.

Regarding the clutch, what's the safest way to do it? Some one once told me a way by jacking it up starting it in reverse and dropping the jack! Sounds serious:eek:
 
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