- Thread starter Eoynteenie
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Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
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- 565
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- South Coast
yea, think that would work,
We have Rene (R4 GTL), A Saab 95 and 96(my next car now), A campervan, 59 plate Fiat 500, a Yamaha Fazer (mine), a Honda CG125(mums) and a Kawa GT550 (dads)
and a fair bit in 'junk/hidden treasure' but i think its a poss to sort it all out
We have Rene (R4 GTL), A Saab 95 and 96(my next car now), A campervan, 59 plate Fiat 500, a Yamaha Fazer (mine), a Honda CG125(mums) and a Kawa GT550 (dads)
and a fair bit in 'junk/hidden treasure' but i think its a poss to sort it all out
barnfind
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 323
- Location
- Lancashire
You guys have so much room
Also I'm going to change the oil for some fresh stuff but i would like to know what other people do to the engines before allowing them to sit for a long time,
No engine responds favourably to inactivity. You could end up with gummed up piston rings, or even a seized engine if you are unlucky. It all depends how long you think that your project will take. If its only a few weeks, then it will probably be okay with just an oil change. If you are talking many months, then you can get special laying up oil, look on one of the classic oil websites (Penrite or Millers). They do special oils that prevent corrosion setting in when the car sits idle. Frosts also do an additive that does the same job.
Drain off any fuel and consider cleaning out the tank with one of the special potions on the market. If you are leaving coolant in the system, make sure you have anti freeze in it.
I had a Saab 96 V4 many years ago(when it was just an old car). Used to love the freewheel.
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
I'll go and talk to my local Car shop, the old boys know the car and should be able to help out and talk about the products you have menstioned.
The 96 is doing my head in, drive it past the Esso garage, happy to give me any gear, decide to go for it, only lets me have 2nd!? Dad gets in, does the same. Its like learning to drive again which i don't mind, its just my dad that do, yelling not to force it or telling me its in gear when its not, least i've stopped going for reverse now.
Have Ernie, the Apprentice of the Marsu Garage
After we gave him some tools
As you can see, the battle between me and dad over the 'temp selves of car roofs and bonnets has started along with all of his 'treasure'.
And Polo in bed after a hard day of Passing and failing Classic Saabs....we need to fix the welder.
(yes, that is his potty, and no, he sleeps in it.)
The 96 is doing my head in, drive it past the Esso garage, happy to give me any gear, decide to go for it, only lets me have 2nd!? Dad gets in, does the same. Its like learning to drive again which i don't mind, its just my dad that do, yelling not to force it or telling me its in gear when its not, least i've stopped going for reverse now.
Have Ernie, the Apprentice of the Marsu Garage
After we gave him some tools
As you can see, the battle between me and dad over the 'temp selves of car roofs and bonnets has started along with all of his 'treasure'.
And Polo in bed after a hard day of Passing and failing Classic Saabs....we need to fix the welder.
(yes, that is his potty, and no, he sleeps in it.)
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
Found this one the Millers Oil Website
Classic Preservation Oil
DESCRIPTION:
Dual purpose preservation oil for storage and limited running of petrol or Diesel engines.
Highly refined mineral base oil with additional additive system to provide rust protection.
APPLICATION:
Use as received to provide storage protection of mechanical parts. Primarily for engines, but can be used for transmissions
Suitable for vintage, classic, motor sport or industrial applications.
Apply in the same way as a normal oil change –
1. Run engine to warm existing oil.
2. Drain oil and change filter.
3. Refill with Classic Preservation Oil and run for 10-15 minutes.
4. Provides projected storage life of 3 years if oil is circulated every 6 months
5. Allows occasional use for up to 2000 miles, but this reduces storage life
6. When engine is required for service, run engine to warm oil and drain without changing oil filter.
7. Refill with correct Millers Oil for continual use.
USER BENEFITS:
• Vapour phase inhibitors provide anti-rust performance on working surfaces.
• Resistance to ‘run-off’ during lay-up.
• Performance equating to API SJ/CC.
• Vehicles can be driven for up to 2000 gentle road miles
• Suitable for petrol and Diesel engines.
• Can be used and run in gearboxes requiring an engine oil
• Can be used for storage only in Hypoid final drives.
PERFORMANCE PROFILE:
• Utilises additive chemistry equivalent to API SJ/CC and incorporates additional performance to ensure significantly improved rust and corrosion protection.
TYPICAL CHARACTERISTICS:
SAE Viscosity Grade ... 20w50
Specific Gravity @ 15°C ... 0.89
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C ... 18.7
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C ... 159cSt
Viscosity Index ... 115cSt
Pour Point °C ... -23
Flashpoint °C ... 200
Cold Crank Viscosity ... n/a
So going to order it from Scottys, (local car shop) who siad to put reddex down the sparkplugs to protect the bores.
Classic Preservation Oil
DESCRIPTION:
Dual purpose preservation oil for storage and limited running of petrol or Diesel engines.
Highly refined mineral base oil with additional additive system to provide rust protection.
APPLICATION:
Use as received to provide storage protection of mechanical parts. Primarily for engines, but can be used for transmissions
Suitable for vintage, classic, motor sport or industrial applications.
Apply in the same way as a normal oil change –
1. Run engine to warm existing oil.
2. Drain oil and change filter.
3. Refill with Classic Preservation Oil and run for 10-15 minutes.
4. Provides projected storage life of 3 years if oil is circulated every 6 months
5. Allows occasional use for up to 2000 miles, but this reduces storage life
6. When engine is required for service, run engine to warm oil and drain without changing oil filter.
7. Refill with correct Millers Oil for continual use.
USER BENEFITS:
• Vapour phase inhibitors provide anti-rust performance on working surfaces.
• Resistance to ‘run-off’ during lay-up.
• Performance equating to API SJ/CC.
• Vehicles can be driven for up to 2000 gentle road miles
• Suitable for petrol and Diesel engines.
• Can be used and run in gearboxes requiring an engine oil
• Can be used for storage only in Hypoid final drives.
PERFORMANCE PROFILE:
• Utilises additive chemistry equivalent to API SJ/CC and incorporates additional performance to ensure significantly improved rust and corrosion protection.
TYPICAL CHARACTERISTICS:
SAE Viscosity Grade ... 20w50
Specific Gravity @ 15°C ... 0.89
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C ... 18.7
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C ... 159cSt
Viscosity Index ... 115cSt
Pour Point °C ... -23
Flashpoint °C ... 200
Cold Crank Viscosity ... n/a
So going to order it from Scottys, (local car shop) who siad to put reddex down the sparkplugs to protect the bores.
barnfind
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 323
- Location
- Lancashire
Redex!!
That's the stuff.
Redex in the form that your local man describes, is now very hard to come by. What you see in the shops now are various fuel additives to clean injectors etc. rather than the old Redex which was an upper cylinder lubricant with some detergent properties and this is what you want.
If you can find some and tip Redex UCL into the combustion chambers, make sure that you spin the engine before startup, without the plugs in, or you could get a hydraulic lock and damage the head gasket. Cover the open holes with a cloth when you spin the engine over, it comes out quite sharply!
That's the stuff.
Redex in the form that your local man describes, is now very hard to come by. What you see in the shops now are various fuel additives to clean injectors etc. rather than the old Redex which was an upper cylinder lubricant with some detergent properties and this is what you want.
If you can find some and tip Redex UCL into the combustion chambers, make sure that you spin the engine before startup, without the plugs in, or you could get a hydraulic lock and damage the head gasket. Cover the open holes with a cloth when you spin the engine over, it comes out quite sharply!
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
now...why do i not to watch this instead......?
gotta wait till i get paid now but thanks for the help
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
yay, had my wisdom tooth removed and the saab's engine has blown up!
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
What i do with the petrol tank? as its empty-ish
barnfind
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 323
- Location
- Lancashire
If you are welding nearby, drain it and take it off. In any event drain it, because old fuel will lose its grade and may cause re- starting difficulties later.
Consider using on eof the tank flush and lining kits, Frosts and Rustbuster both do them and they comprise a caustic soda type cleaner that gets all the old sediment and deposits out, and then an epoxy type liquid that you put in after rinsing and drying out, which sets to seal in any corrosion, etc. Also protects against some of the additives in new fuels.
Consider using on eof the tank flush and lining kits, Frosts and Rustbuster both do them and they comprise a caustic soda type cleaner that gets all the old sediment and deposits out, and then an epoxy type liquid that you put in after rinsing and drying out, which sets to seal in any corrosion, etc. Also protects against some of the additives in new fuels.
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
prob won't be welding this side of Christmas, (not that good yet).
got told to fill it up with pertrol so to protect it while in a stand still.
But i think i will have to take it off, so how can i protect it while its off from crap and rust?
(a lot of this stuff could be going into the roof of the house)
got told to fill it up with pertrol so to protect it while in a stand still.
But i think i will have to take it off, so how can i protect it while its off from crap and rust?
(a lot of this stuff could be going into the roof of the house)
barnfind
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 323
- Location
- Lancashire
Filling it up to the top removes the airspace and hence reduces the likelihood of condensation forming and getting into the fuel. Quite an expensive way of rust proofing these days, however, especially since it does go off if you don't use it and you could end up draing it off and throwing it away.
If you are storing the (hopefully empty) tank in the house, however, it shouldn't deteriorate significantly. However, it would be worth a clean out with the stuff I mentioned before. Its surprising how long petrol fumes lurk in an old tank, even one emptied and left to dry out.
If you are storing the (hopefully empty) tank in the house, however, it shouldn't deteriorate significantly. However, it would be worth a clean out with the stuff I mentioned before. Its surprising how long petrol fumes lurk in an old tank, even one emptied and left to dry out.
Everyone says petrol goes off but we have never had a problem. My R4 was dead in the garden for 3 years and it started and ran fine on the petrol that was in it. On the other hand if you plan to store it in the loft keeping it full of fuel will be messy 
When i took mine off it didn't leak But taking it off was enough to start it leaking ! Also discovered cracks around where the filler neck is soldered on which hadn't been noticed before (must have come from where it had been hit to smash the fuel cap when some fuel was stolen from it a few years back)
Regards,
Andrew
When i took mine off it didn't leak But taking it off was enough to start it leaking ! Also discovered cracks around where the filler neck is soldered on which hadn't been noticed before (must have come from where it had been hit to smash the fuel cap when some fuel was stolen from it a few years back)
Regards,
Andrew
Lobster
Enthusiast
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Fuel does go off but not particularly quickly - both my R4s will be doing very little over winter but the fuel that is in them will still be ok come next March or whenever I reactivate them. Maybe fuel going off is more of an issue on modern, multivalve engines. I don't think R4s are that fussy.
And please don't store a fuel tank with fuel in in your loft. That sounds potentially very dangerous to me!
And please don't store a fuel tank with fuel in in your loft. That sounds potentially very dangerous to me!
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
i may be an engineering apprentice, but i doute i'm that stupid, draining the tank today.
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
fun fun fun with draining a petrol tank and carbs,
Rear wings and petrol tank to come off now and find where dad put the replacements ones
And i keep finding good tyres, its unreal!
Can some one point to buying the welding repair kits for the inner wings?
Rutger-peer
The restoring Dutchman.
- Messages
- 259
They've got those weld-in parts in Germany, DerFranzose.de or reportedly also at reno4er.de. Here in the Netherlands they've got them at Wind classics or my local R4dealer. Don't know where to get them in England though. Probably Malcolm knows, he also used those parts in his restorationprocess.
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
Thanks for that DerFranzose.de one,
they have all four corners where theses things goes on wings, just the back wheel arch now and rear door i need to look at.
Must remember to stop seeing the final product,
Off the ground
part from one tyre (wasn't a good idea, put him on four axle stands in the end)
Also have him towing a trailer with my CBR400RR after not making friends with the ground that well :shock:
they have all four corners where theses things goes on wings, just the back wheel arch now and rear door i need to look at.
Must remember to stop seeing the final product,
Off the ground
part from one tyre (wasn't a good idea, put him on four axle stands in the end)
Also have him towing a trailer with my CBR400RR after not making friends with the ground that well :shock:
Eoynteenie
Planning an Advent4
- Messages
- 565
- Location
- South Coast
So got the seats out of Rene at last and into the roof to be eaten by the house and the mats out to look at the chassis
I am wandering if the Body has been welded to the chassis
Also stripped the 96 of its seats and put them in Rene (oh well)
Water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink
The source? Behind the Dash board under the windscreen, can't get to it that well but boy was it wet. I do know of a friends 96 that went here, and when both doors got slammed at the same time, it window popped out :shock:
But a new ENGINE
(debates about getting my hands on a R4 pick up and putting a V4 engine in it)
I am wandering if the Body has been welded to the chassis
Also stripped the 96 of its seats and put them in Rene (oh well
)
Water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink
The source? Behind the Dash board under the windscreen, can't get to it that well but boy was it wet. I do know of a friends 96 that went here, and when both doors got slammed at the same time, it window popped out :shock:
But a new ENGINE
(debates about getting my hands on a R4 pick up and putting a V4 engine in it)