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Brake Backplates

Removing back plates and rear barke fluid connection

Hi There, i have a problem, i tried to disconnect rear slave cylider but all the bolts are too tigth, even the fluid line connection wont get loose.Then i tried to disconnect fastening bolts of one rear back plate, only with result that bolt snapped.I have a girling system brakes with metal clips.

what to do, pls give some good hints how to disconnect rusted bolts and fluid lines-now all bolt edges are too rounded.

I have tried with rust off chemicals, with heating gun+cooling rust off??????
 
Hi there, if you have access to a gas welding set, using this to heat up the bolts is better than a heat gun. Now this might sound like butchery but hammering on the next size down socket usually works when a nut or bolt has rounded off. Sometimes you just have to do these things.:smile:
 
front barek hoses+rear pipes

]Hi there, if you have access to a gas welding set, using this to heat up the bolts is better than a heat gun.
**OK-thanks

Now this might sound like butchery but hammering on the next size down socket usually works when a nut or bolt has rounded off.
**OK, that i had in mind but does not fulfill aeronautic standards for repairs:)

Further: anyone had this same problem with broken bolts when trying to loosen rear back plates-is it extreme difficult to drill off the bolt plus draw in new/original threads?

What is the rigth way to reassy front brake hoses? must i deconnect the connection of puipe /flex hose or what(turning backwards thread the hose ain't so fun?)

howabout renewing the last parts of the barake pipe to rear sleeve cylinders(if i have to), i assume those are some 1200mm in legth, but again-will it be painful to loosen their connection points?:confused:
 
I haven't found time to fit the new backplates yet but I expect it's going to be a battle with rusted bolts.

My experience of workarounds is that the smaller socket can work well - sometimes too well, for example on my son's VW's locking wheelnuts after he managed to lose the key socket.

I've also got a set of Bergen sockets - these sometimes work amazingly well but often not so well.

If all else fails I go back to Robert M Pirsig's principles and trust in Zen.......
 
An update from Torphichen - the AX backplates aren't a fit after all - the mounting holes are slightly further out than the originals - by about 2 mm. My first reaction was to be scunnered - this is a good old Scottish word, the equivalent of 'pi**ed off' - after the thought crossed my mind that my restoration plans were going to be frustrated only by rusted Bendix (masquerading as Girling) backplates.

But I've just got the front wings back on - one new and the other repaired, and there's not much more to do to get it through an MOT. The car is sitting there saying 'drive me' so it's time for Zen to kick in and to ponder the problem. Perhaps I can modify the AX backplates by welding over the existing mounting holes - on the outside - and drilling new ones. Unless somebody out there can suggest an alternative approach?
 
Are the backplates a perfect match otherwise /

As they are only slightly out a nasty fix might be to widen the holes and use some washers !
 
Funnily enough I was thinking along those lines but hadn't considered the washers. I reckon that if I oblong the holes by 1mm towards the centre then it might be ok. The backplates will be securely fixed to the suspension arm - there's no centrifugal force to consider - all of the braking force will be transmitted through the 4 bolts radially (I know what I mean but the description might be technically inaccurate).

Otherwise they are a perfect match for Girling parts - I have shoes and cylinders, just need the adjusters and springs. Girling do drum overhaul kits which include all these - just need to find the correct one. But I think that I might give online shopping a miss on that one and take the parts I have to a sympathetic motor factor and match up the missing items.
 
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