Brake Pedal Adjustment

[Giles Stone]

Hi again - thank to all who helped with my post on the flexible brake pipes - job now done.

I now have a new question?????? The brakes work perfectly all round but the brake pedal goes do almost to the floor before the brakes engage. This was happening before I replaced the flexible hoses so is not related. I have also adjusted the rear brakes - the front are self adjusting.

Is it wise/possible to adjust the travel on the brake pedal - will it solve the problem?

 

[SJC400]

Sounds to me like more bleeding of the brakes is required?
Could still be air in the system, the brakes will work but pedal will not be as hard as it should.

 

[mojobaby]

Hello Giles
I've had the same problem which is now solved. You can have a look at my post:
http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/bleeding-brakes.8493/#post-57282

There are a few things that you can check:
Your brake pad linings might be worn and need replacing.
The brake pads are too far from the drum,
You need to bleed your brakes again

Not sure if you have discs or drums........

 

[Giles Stone]

Yes I've checked brake linings and there is very little wear on either front or back - both are drum brakes. I have bleed the brakes and master cylinder twice now no air in the system as far as I can tell. Which is why I wondered if the brake pedal has been wrongly adjusted by the previous owner who did the original restoration.

 

[mojobaby]

I bled my brakes by myself about 20 times and it was only when I followed Angel's instructions that I managed to get more air out of the system.
My wife pumped the pedal about 5 times and maintained pressure on the last stroke. I then opened and closed the bleeder nipple and only then did she release the pedal.

Before this, I was trying to bleed the brakes myself with a tube in a bottle method. Obviously that method wasn't good enough.

I might be mistaken, but I don't think that the pedal itself can be adjusted

 

[Giles Stone]

I'll give that a try and let you know how it goes

 

[montenegro]

if all fails, loosen the master cylinder cap, pump the pedal until it's firm, find a way of holding down, pos a length of wood jammed under the steering wheel ? leave overnite, test. it's important to loosen the cap so the air can find it's way to the highest point. bon chance

 

[Piet]

Two things to try:
1. make sure your handbrake works well and is well adjusted (if a car with front wheel handbrakes) and
2. Suggest you go to a brake place and get them power bled. Trying to bleed from scratch after taking system partly apart is notoriously problematic, get a power bleed done and then in future home bleeding more likely to work.

 

[SJC400]

If the pressure held on the pedal works for a time (Piece of wood against the steering wheel method, as 'Montenegro' suggested) the chances are, the Master cylinder is in problems, so replace seals or even better, replace master cylinder. Had this myself, several times over the years!

 

[Giles Stone]

Hi everyone and thanks for all the help/suggestions. Montenegro's method worked very well and the brakes are much firmer - so I'll see how it goes from here as the brakes are working OK.
Thanks again for all the help

 

[AdamWilkes]

..... . . also don't trust the auto-adjusters on the brake shoes; they tend to get stuck after a long life, and stop auto-adjusting, leading to ever-increasing pedal-travel.

I recommend the pump-up pressurised brake-bleeding system, with pedal-pumping as well if needed; lots of volume of fluid exits with pedal-pumps but there's no risk of sucking air back in as the fluid is always under pressure from the pressurised bleed system.

 

[mr-reno-139]

If you get a much better brake pedal after applying the handbrake then some adjustment will be necessary on the brakes themselves