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driveshaft oil seal

billythefish

Enthusiast
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350
The oil seal on my drive shaft started to leak again ( 1971 R4 845cc ) so I decided enough was enough and to would replace it.
As I have the 334 gearbox the seal I required was 28x45x8 so I ordered a pair from Marksman Industrial ltd on line, telephone 01252 345345, the pair of seals cost me £1.28p each plus vat and £2.50 p postage for a grand total of £6.07p.
I ordered them on Thursday lunch time and received them next morning in the post, not bad going!
I would like to replace one of the rear wheel bearing which is whining a bit, does any one have any idea what the size of the two bearings are, hopefully they were all made the same size throughout the years?:hug::hug:
 
Ah - according to Quinton Hazel they say there were two kits available containing two pairs of different sizes. Can I suggest that you pull the hub from the side that is noisy and check to see if it's the inner or outer one that's worn. If it's the outer then just replace that one and you can source it easily from a local bearing supplier. If both are worn then again, measure them and buy locally or let me know the width and I will check the Quinton Hazel kit part number.
 
whel bearing

Thanks Steve,
I think they both need replacing even though they look all right, there is slight play on the wheel when you wiggle it from top to bottom while it's jacked up but seems all right if I wiggle it from left to right, but there is a distinctive cringing when I drive it coming from that particular wheel.:!:
 
When you remove the hub wipe the film of grease from each cup to check for pitting. Rear wheel bearings are tapered and any play can be adjusted out.
 
If someone in the past didn't replace a rear suspension arm with a later one, bearing dimensions are:

Inner: 22 x 47 x 20,75
Outer: 17 x 40 x 13,25
 
Thank you Steve and Angel,
I will check it out as soon as it stops raining which could be a few days from now, the thing that made me think it was a bearing was the crunching noise coming from the driver's rear wheel but after taking the hub off the bearing didn't seem to be really bad and it was well greased up, I thought at first that one of the brake shoes had come loose inside the drum.
I suppose with the rear bearing being tapered I can afford to tighten it up without to much worry about over tightening it.
 
Hello Billy, the rear hub-bearings should be adjusted finger tight only, DON'T tighten with a spanner, then use the nut-shaped cover to lock it with the split-pin. If you over tighten with a spanner you will damage the bearings. If you do have rumbling bearings you might need to replace them. Your local bearing supplier should be able to help you there, just give him the numbers engraved on the bearings. Regards, Brian.:cool:
 
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